André at Opia

André is a quiet addition to the newly refurbished Opia lounge and bar with an expanded terrace.
André at Opia
CHEF PRYOR: the talent behind Andre's success. (Nadia Ghattas/Epoch Times )
8/27/2009
Updated:
8/31/2009
<a href="https://www.theepochtimes.com/assets/uploads/2015/07/chefAndre_medium.jpg"><img src="https://www.theepochtimes.com/assets/uploads/2015/07/chefAndre_medium.jpg" alt="CHEF PRYOR: the talent behind Andre's success. (Nadia Ghattas/Epoch Times )" title="CHEF PRYOR: the talent behind Andre's success. (Nadia Ghattas/Epoch Times )" width="320" class="size-medium wp-image-91484"/></a>
CHEF PRYOR: the talent behind Andre's success. (Nadia Ghattas/Epoch Times )
André is a quiet addition to the newly refurbished Opia lounge and bar with an expanded terrace where up to eight guests per terrace can dine al fresco. It is located on the second floor of the Renaissance Hotel situated on one of the busiest corners of New York City, 57 Street and Lexington Avenue. As you walk up the stairs towards André, you must walk through Opia’s bar and lounge where you can get a feel of the lively crowd.

Whether it is a power breakfast meeting, a casual lunch or an intimate dinner, you can have it at André. Celebrated chef Ted Pryor, formerly of La Goulue, Orsay, and Les Halle has introduced an exciting new summer menu for diners to savor. Breakfast menu items include Baked Eggs with Truffle Shallot Cream and Apple Brioche French Toast. For a casual lunch, one can enjoy a lovely salad of Smoky Grilled Prawns with Avocado and Mango.

As for the dinner menu, it is comprised of wonderful creations featuring the Chef’s culinary flair. The menu is elegant, approachable, and delights the palate with a predominantly French influence. Each dish is prepared with the right balance of ingredients, color, texture, and flavor. Chef Pryor lived in France in the 1960s with his parents who moved there. Although his father was a lawyer, he was also a fabulous gardener, while his mother who was a great cook immediately mastered French cooking. Cooking therefore influenced him, and he knew he did not want to be a lawyer.

<a href="https://www.theepochtimes.com/assets/uploads/2015/07/Andre1-Crab_medium.jpg"><img src="https://www.theepochtimes.com/assets/uploads/2015/07/Andre1-Crab_medium.jpg" alt="SOFTSHELL CRAB NOISETTE: The correct balance of flavors and temperature. (Nadia Ghattas/Epoch Times )" title="SOFTSHELL CRAB NOISETTE: The correct balance of flavors and temperature. (Nadia Ghattas/Epoch Times )" width="320" class="size-medium wp-image-91485"/></a>
SOFTSHELL CRAB NOISETTE: The correct balance of flavors and temperature. (Nadia Ghattas/Epoch Times )
While in Paris, Pryor worked at L’espadon at the Ritz Hotel where he discovered that in order to create something delicious it is all about ingredients. He grew up with fresh vegetables from the garden and learned cooking from Joël Robechon at the famed Belgian restaurant Thierry’s Relais in Bedford Hills, N.Y. His philosophy is going back to basics: applying classic French principles with an American accent to cuisine and by using the best local and imported ingredients.

My friend and I started with the colorful Jambon de Bayonne and Melon Trio with poppy seed vinaigrette dish ($12), which tasted as wonderful as it looked. The Jambon de Bayonne, salty and chewy, sits like a nice little package among the melon balls. Soft Shell Crab Noisette with Cucumber Yogurt Coulis and Herbed Salad ($14) was another harmonious contrast of temperature, flavor, and textures. The hot crispy crabs versus the cool cucumber-yogurt coulis was fabulous. I remember seeing my friend’s smile as he savored every bit of it. Although there were so many flavors, I could feel a subtle and pleasant heat gently seeping in. For a moment I thought it was cayenne pepper, but it had a more refined and smoother heat. It was actually the French spice known as Pimont D’espellette.

Entrees were just as good, each giving one pleasant surprise after another. The mouth-watering and joyous Lightly Braised Maya Shrimp, Summer Sauté on fresh house made Tagliatelle ($24). Chef Pryor told me that the Maya Shrimp are considered the best in the market from the coast of Guatemala. They are jumbo shrimp, the size of langoustine. My friend referred to it as the king of all dishes, and I tend to agree with him. The pasta felt like velvet in your mouth, with the sweet taste of shrimp in counter point with the zesty and acidic tomato sauce and topped with micro greens causing an explosion of contrasting flavors against your palate.

Another dish that stood out was the Whole Fish a La Plancha with Summer Vegetables. This dish features the catch of the day and is priced accordingly. The fish cooked in olive oil and capers, felt creamy, smooth, melted in your mouth, and was very light.

The dessert menu is something not to be missed. We had the Dessert Tasting for Two ($19), which had the chef’s selection of three desserts. Prepared by pastry chef Jose Maria Velazco all are to die for. Indulge in the molten chocolate cake served warm with vanilla ice cream, and why not try the Floating Island With Crème Anglaise as well?

Breakfast at André is served from 6:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. and a delightful Jazz Brunch is served on both Saturdays and Sunday. Opia’s Lounge Menu is available until 1:00 a.m. seven days a week.

You may find André at Opia at:
130 E 57th St, New York, N.Y.
Telephone: 212-688-3939.
Web site: opiarestaurant.com
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