Ask Chef Phyllis:
A few weeks back at a neighbor’s party, a friend who had been to Brazil mentioned that tapioca pudding was on almost every menu. I know I am dating myself, but the only time I ever ate and really enjoyed tapioca pudding was at the Automat in Philadelphia—and that was many years ago (after World War II) with my Grandmother Ethyl. She took me along shopping to help carry her heavy grocery bags back home. And the reward was to stop and eat at Horn & Hardart, which I loved to do. I know everyone thinks that the Automat was a New York restaurant, but my dad said it originated in Philly in a renovated printing shop where he apprenticed as a typesetter when he was only 13 years old. Can you provide an H&H tapioca pudding recipe—smooth and creamy like the original, which didn’t contain Cool Whip? —David Selby, Philadelphia, PAAs soon as I read your letter I wanted to sing, “Less work for Mother; let’s lend her a hand.” It’s a song lyric from the old Horn & Hardart TV show, “The Children’s Hour.” The song was an advertisement for their new “take out” promotion. Before that time, the Automat didn’t offer whole meals, pies, pastries, containers of beans, puddings, or baked goods to the public to go. This must have been a very comforting idea for a depression weary America.
