When Summer Gives You a Bounty, Why Not Make a Meatless Taco?

When Summer Gives You a Bounty, Why Not Make a Meatless Taco?
Vegetable tacos prove satisfying to even the most ardent meat-eaters. (JeanMarie Brownson/TNS)
8/1/2023
Updated:
8/8/2023
0:00

By JeanMarie Brownson From Tribune Content Agency

I always carve out time for a weekly farmers market shop. Trick is to fashion time to cook everything I purchase: golden beets, slender squash, sweet onions, rainbow-colored chard, plump peppers, and all manner of tomatoes.

Help and inspiration comes in the form of a variety of bold-flavored recipes. Some for quick-cooking and others for dishes that reheat well.

Serving vegetables in novel formats also keeps my eaters interested. Enter the supple goodness of a soft, warm tortilla. Vegetable tacos prove satisfying to even the most ardent meat-eaters. Similarly, piling a crisp corn tostada with cooked vegetables and garnishes renders them fresh and exciting.

Prolific patty pan squash, like a summery zucchini, profits from nearly any seasoning. The popular chili crisp condiment in particular zests up the bland vegetable. Pair the combination with spicy poblanos and soft, fresh cheese for a fabulous meatless filling to tuck into warmed corn or flour tortillas.

Beets require long cooking. Good news is that they reheat beautifully. I cook the following recipe for beets in a foil packet when I have room on a hot grill or oven. Then, assemble the beets with the rest of the ingredients when convenient. Serve the mixture in tortillas or over a tostada with sour cream and hot sauce.

Colorful chard cooks in less than 10 minutes. Seasoned with a touch of puréed chipotle and a splash of cream turns the tender greens into a side dish or meatless taco filling.

Roasted Yellow Squash With Soft Cheese and Chili Crisp

Make 4 to 6 servings

Note: All varieties of squash work well here, from the dark green zucchini, to patty pan and round Mexican tatume squash. Look for bottled chili crisp online, in Asian markets or specialty food stores.

Ingredients
  • 2 medium (about 1 pound total) yellow squash, trimmed, cut 1 1/2 inch cubes
  • 1 medium sweet onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 2 small poblano peppers or 1 large green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 2 cups (8 ounces) 3/4-inch diced queso fresco, farmers or paneer cheese
  • 1/4 cup bottled chili crisp condiment
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro or chives or a combination
  • 8 to 12 warmed 6-inch corn or flour tortillas

Directions

1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Cut squash lengthwise into quarters. Cut quarters into 1-inch pieces.

2. Mix squash pieces, onion and peppers on a large rimmed baking sheet. Add oil and toss well to coat evenly. Sprinkle with salt. Roast, turning every 10 minutes, until golden and tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

3. Remove from oven; stir in cheese and chili crisp. Sprinkle with cilantro. Serve warm in warmed tortillas.

Black Bean and Golden Beet Tostada

Makes 6 to 8 tostadas

Note: When the grill is hot, you can cook the beet and onion packet on it, set indirectly over the heat source.

Ingredients
  • 4 to 5 medium-size (12 ounces total) golden or red beets
  • 1 medium-size sweet onion, halved, sliced into ½-inch wedges
  • 3 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons expeller pressed canola oil, safflower oil or grapeseed oil
  • 3 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried
  • 1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained, rinsed
  • 6 to 8 corn tostadas
  • 1 to 1 1/2 cups shredded gouda or white cheddar cheese
  • About 1/2 cup plain yogurt or sour cream
  • Red chile hot sauce
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Directions

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Trim and peel beets. Cut into 1/2-inch thick slices. Cut slices into 1/2-inch chunks. Cut onion in half. Cut each half into 1/2-inch wide wedges.

2. Have a double thickness of foil, about 16 inches long, at the ready. Put beets and onion in center of foil. Add garlic and salt and mix. Top with oil and thyme sprigs. Wrap to completely enclose beets. Place the packet on a baking sheet. Bake until the beets are tender when pierced with a knife, about 40 minutes. Use warm or refrigerate up to three days.

3. Put drained beans into a large bowl. Slit the beet packet and transfer its contents to the black beans; remove the thyme sprigs. Mix well. (Reheat mixture in a microwave oven if necessary.)

4. Shortly before serving, preheat a broiler. Arrange tostadas in a single layer on a large baking sheet. Pile a generous 1/4 cup of the bean mixture into the center of each tostada. Top with 2 tablespoons cheese. Broil, 6 inches from heat source, until cheese is melty and golden, about 1 minute. Drizzle each with yogurt, hot sauce and cilantro. Serve hot.

Swiss Chard in Chipotle Cream

Makes 4 servings

Note: You’ll need a very large nonstick skillet, or two medium-size ones, to accommodate the leaves until they wilt down. This recipe also works well with other tender greens such as spinach and Tuscan kale. Adjust the cooking time to be sure the stems are tender and the leaves nicely wilted and tender.

Ingredients

  • 1 large bunch (about 14 ounces) fresh Swiss chard, well rinsed
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 medium-size white or red onion, halved, thinly sliced
  • 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 1/3 cup whipping (heavy) cream
  • 2 teaspoons puréed chipotle chiles
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 8 to 12 warmed corn or small flour tortillas

Directions

1. Trim off and discard tough ends from stalks. Cut stalks into 1/2-inch pieces. Roll up leaves and cut crosswise into ½-inch wide pieces.

2. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion. Cook, stirring often, until golden, about 8 minutes. Stir in garlic; cook and stir for 30 seconds. Add chard stems; mix well. Cook, stirring nearly constantly, until just tender, about 3 minutes.

3. Stir in the cut leaves, cream and chipotle purée; cook over high heat until leaves are wilted and pan juices somewhat reduced, 4 to 5 minutes. Season with salt. Serve immediately in warm tortillas.

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JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades. ©2022 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.
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