Keeping the Fire Alive: Pitmaster Pat Martin Is Building a Whole-Hog Barbecue Empire

After becoming obsessed with the West Tennessee specialty, the Nashville-based chef and restaurateur dedicated his life to perfecting—and preserving—this disappearing craft

Pat Martin is the pitmaster and owner of Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint, which has locations in Tennessee, Kentucky, South Carolina, and Alabama. Courtesy of Andrew Thomas Photography

Pat Martin is one of a rare breed: an open-pit barbecue master who uses whole hogs, a West Tennessee tradition that requires a 24-hour cooking time at 200 degrees Fahrenheit—as well as hours of prep.

“The French have their cheese; we as Americans have our barbecue. You drive 50 miles and it changes,” Martin said.