It is a city often overlooked—and mispronounced. Home to about 1.3 million people, this rather chill capital city sits on the northern bank of the Río de la Plata (River Plate), just on the edge of the Atlantic. In a place where that famous South American waterway is so wide, you can’t even see across.
Exploring Montevideo
Disembarking my ship and boarding a motor coach, our group was told by a friendly, funny guide named Fernando that Uruguay is the safest and most stable country in South America. No drama. Think about it: When was the last time you heard about Uruguay in the news? You haven’t.Fernando recognized that this stable situation might result in a little bit of unfamiliarity. Taking the microphone at the front of the bus, he asked us a series of very simple questions.
“What do you know about my country?”
(Nothing but silence from those seated on the bus.)
“Nothing?”
(More silence.)
“Perfect!”
As we rolled along sunny city streets, I looked out the window at people enjoying their weekend, out biking, and walking dogs. And Fernando enlightened us with a few more salient facts. “Uruguay” means “river of the painted birds” and, despite frequent confusion, has nothing to do with another South American country, Paraguay. The Uruguayan flag has nine stripes for the nine original states, white for hope, and blue for the river. “And the sun? It gives light to the nation.”
We made a brief stop at Independence Square, right in the heart of town, to walk around and enjoy the grandeur and architecture. It is dominated by the distinctive Palacio Salvo, the city’s signature building—finished in 1928, it was created to be a hotel and, for a time, stood as the tallest building in Latin America. Other structures here have national prominence, including the 1873 Estévez Palace, with its Doric columns, once home to the Uruguayan president’s office. And, right next door, the tall, modern Torre Ejecutiva (Executive Tower), where the president now conducts his business.
After another brief stop at the impressive national parliament building—built from 50 different types of marble—we rumbled away from the city core. Fernando shared more fun facts about his home, including the country’s long-running carnival (which stretches over 45 days) and the city’s connection with the early days of tango dancing. “Originally, it was danced only by men!” he declared. “Men in suits!”
National Pride
While Montevideo is home to an impressive cathedral, it is possible that our final stop on the tour is actually the city’s greatest place of worship. At first, I wondered if our bus driver had made a wrong turn. I saw no soaring grandstands on the horizon. And the surrounding neighborhood was all lush lawns, leafy-green parks, and well-kept private residences.It is truly almost impossible to articulate the importance of Estadio Centenario in Uruguay’s national consciousness. Here, in 1930, the national team achieved something of almost incomprehensible importance to the country’s football fans (which, in Uruguay, is almost everyone). That is, they won the very first World Cup.
And not only that, but they did it here, at home, in a venue they’d built solely for that purpose. After building the place in just nine months, the Uruguayans beat Argentina 4–2 in the final. FIFA has declared the stadium a Historical Monument of World Football—to this day, it’s the only stadium to hold that prestigious designation.
Unlike today’s coliseums of sport, which can feel hulking and intimidating, the Estadio Centenario is graceful and lovely and, at least from the outside, really rather unassuming. Which is saying something for a place that can hold as many as 60,000 screaming fans. Set in a park, the many rows of seats seem almost to blend into the pleasant, surrounding green space. The 328-foot Tower of Tributes peers down over it all.
Our tour finishes at the Museo del Fútbol, inside the stadium, under the Olympic Stand. It is small but mighty, capturing the passion that has brought this country a total of two World Cups. (It won the second in 1950, in a win over Brazil.)
I wandered between the exhibits, which include statues of the captains from those two triumphant teams. There are game-worn jerseys and muddy cleats from heroic players. Plus, video and black-and-white photos of other major matches.
