Finding Peace in Montevideo

Life goes on pleasantly in Uruguay, a nation that seems to have cracked the code to contentment.

Independence Square, at the site of a former Spanish colonial citadel, honors the country's independence and separates the Old City and downtown areas. Ivo Antonie de Rooij/Shutterstock

It is a city often overlooked—and mispronounced. Home to about 1.3 million people, this rather chill capital city sits on the northern bank of the Río de la Plata (River Plate), just on the edge of the Atlantic. In a place where that famous South American waterway is so wide, you can’t even see across.

Montevideo isn’t really on the way to anywhere else. It’s not a place where you’re likely to explore on an unexpected layover. Unlike in Santiago, Chile, or São Paulo, its airport is not a hub for international flights. While plenty of cruise ships call here, the number is still relatively few when compared with major ports. Which makes this waterside city (pronounced Mon-ti-vi-DAY-O, rather than Monti-video) a perfect place for a journey of discovery, even if, like me, you only have a single day to explore it.

Exploring Montevideo

Disembarking my ship and boarding a motor coach, our group was told by a friendly, funny guide named Fernando that Uruguay is the safest and most stable country in South America. No drama. Think about it: When was the last time you heard about Uruguay in the news? You haven’t.

Fernando recognized that this stable situation might result in a little bit of unfamiliarity. Taking the microphone at the front of the bus, he asked us a series of very simple questions.

“What do you know about my country?”

(Nothing but silence from those seated on the bus.)

“Nothing?”

(More silence.)

“Perfect!”

As we rolled along sunny city streets, I looked out the window at people enjoying their weekend, out biking, and walking dogs. And Fernando enlightened us with a few more salient facts. “Uruguay” means “river of the painted birds” and, despite frequent confusion, has nothing to do with another South American country, Paraguay. The Uruguayan flag has nine stripes for the nine original states, white for hope, and blue for the river. “And the sun? It gives light to the nation.”

We made a brief stop at Independence Square, right in the heart of town, to walk around and enjoy the grandeur and architecture. It is dominated by the distinctive Palacio Salvo, the city’s signature building—finished in 1928, it was created to be a hotel and, for a time, stood as the tallest building in Latin America. Other structures here have national prominence, including the 1873 Estévez Palace, with its Doric columns, once home to the Uruguayan president’s office. And, right next door, the tall, modern Torre Ejecutiva (Executive Tower), where the president now conducts his business.

After another brief stop at the impressive national parliament building—built from 50 different types of marble—we rumbled away from the city core. Fernando shared more fun facts about his home, including the country’s long-running carnival (which stretches over 45 days) and the city’s connection with the early days of tango dancing. “Originally, it was danced only by men!” he declared. “Men in suits!”

Dancers often perform in the streets of Montevideo to showcase their talent and entertain passersby. David Haykazyan/Shutterstock

Outside the windows of the bus, scenes of a sunny Sunday played out. Kids kicked soccer balls out in a field. A flea market bustled with activity. People sat along the banks of a little creek, enjoying some mate, which is ubiquitous here. This super-popular drink is always sipped from a little gourd with a metal straw (called a bombilla). It is an herb-rich, heavily caffeinated drink that dates back hundreds of years, created by the indigenous Guaraní. (I tried it once—not my favorite. Too bitter.)

National Pride

While Montevideo is home to an impressive cathedral, it is possible that our final stop on the tour is actually the city’s greatest place of worship. At first, I wondered if our bus driver had made a wrong turn. I saw no soaring grandstands on the horizon. And the surrounding neighborhood was all lush lawns, leafy-green parks, and well-kept private residences.

It is truly almost impossible to articulate the importance of Estadio Centenario in Uruguay’s national consciousness. Here, in 1930, the national team achieved something of almost incomprehensible importance to the country’s football fans (which, in Uruguay, is almost everyone). That is, they won the very first World Cup.

Estadio Centenario has witnessed several historic soccer moments, including Uruguay's victory in the 1930 FIFA World Cup final against Argentina. T photography/Shutterstock

And not only that, but they did it here, at home, in a venue they’d built solely for that purpose. After building the place in just nine months, the Uruguayans beat Argentina 4–2 in the final. FIFA has declared the stadium a Historical Monument of World Football—to this day, it’s the only stadium to hold that prestigious designation.

Unlike today’s coliseums of sport, which can feel hulking and intimidating, the Estadio Centenario is graceful and lovely and, at least from the outside, really rather unassuming. Which is saying something for a place that can hold as many as 60,000 screaming fans. Set in a park, the many rows of seats seem almost to blend into the pleasant, surrounding green space. The 328-foot Tower of Tributes peers down over it all.

Our tour finishes at the Museo del Fútbol, inside the stadium, under the Olympic Stand. It is small but mighty, capturing the passion that has brought this country a total of two World Cups. (It won the second in 1950, in a win over Brazil.)

I wandered between the exhibits, which include statues of the captains from those two triumphant teams. There are game-worn jerseys and muddy cleats from heroic players. Plus, video and black-and-white photos of other major matches.

Back on the bus and returning to the ship, we wound back along the River Plate, broad and shimmering in the late-afternoon light. Happy, relaxed people sunbathed on the beaches, a handful splashing in the water. Just another lazy weekend summer afternoon in a city I’m very glad that I didn’t overlook.

If You Go

Fly: Montevideo’s Carrasco International Airport (MVD) is relatively small and friendly. While a few transcontinental flights land here (including a seasonal nonstop from Miami), it is mostly serviced by South American carriers. Meaning, if you’re coming from North America, you’ll probably have a connection somewhere such as Santiago or São Paulo.

Stay: While I visited on board the cruise ship Sapphire Princess, the city offers a number of good hotels, including the four-star Radisson Victoria Plaza, which sits right on Independence Square. Here, you’ll find an indoor pool, a full-service spa, and rooms with views all the way back to the river.

Getting around: The city doesn’t have a metro system, but it is well covered by a bus network that’s efficient, safe, and inexpensive. A single ride typically costs less than a dollar. In a pinch, taxis and ride-share services are also available.

Take note: Every Uruguayan will tell you that the country produces some of the best steaks on earth. And at the Port Market (Mercado del Puerto), the grills sizzle with so many delicious cuts, from picanha to lomo to matambre. While you’ll have your choice of food stalls, Cabana Veronica is one of the very best.