Gateway City to the Arctic: Tromso, Amundsen, and the Heroic Age of Exploration

Roald Amundsen’s Arctic base still whispers tales of resilience, risk, and the race to places no one had dared go before.
Gateway City to the Arctic: Tromso, Amundsen, and the Heroic Age of Exploration
Traditional red and yellow wooden Norwegian cabins in Tromso, Norway. JohnKruger/Shutterstock
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Yes, you can fly to Tromso, but it’s a place that absolutely should be approached from the water. As you sail in, the city rises around you. Soaring bridges connect the island of Tromsoya to the mainland. On one side, there’s the white peaked roof of the Arctic Cathedral up on a nearby ridge. The shores are lined with bright, multi-story, multicolored warehouses, the reds and yellows and oranges all contrasting with the frozen, snowcapped peaks that backdrop the whole scene.

Sitting at 69 degrees north, with a population of almost 80,000 people, Tromso is one of the largest cities inside the Arctic Circle. It is, in many ways, a modern, polished place. You’ll find a number of claims to fame there, including a pedestrian shopping promenade that includes a bookstore (Norli Bokhuset) that’s been named the very best in Norway and, perhaps a little less prestigious, the northernmost McDonald’s on earth.

Tim Johnson
Tim Johnson
Author
Toronto-based writer Tim Johnson is always traveling in search of the next great story. Having visited 140 countries across all seven continents, he’s tracked lions on foot in Botswana, dug for dinosaur bones in Mongolia, and walked among a half-million penguins on South Georgia Island. He contributes to some of North America’s largest publications, including CNN Travel, Bloomberg, and The Globe and Mail.