Big Castles and Strong Brews: A Surprising Afternoon in Heidelberg

The German town is home to a lively university.
Big Castles and Strong Brews: A Surprising Afternoon in Heidelberg
About 1 million people visit Heidelberg Castle each year. S.Borisov/Shutterstock
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Finishing up lunch and looking out the window, things didn’t look so promising. Sitting on a river cruise ship tied up alongside the shore on a tributary of the Rhine, everything out there looks rather industrial. Yes, in a tidy, efficient, very German way, but still—not much to pique the interest.

And once I boarded a coach for an afternoon tour, winding along on the Autobahn, we proceeded through cities whose names meant nothing to me. Ludwigsburg, then Mannheim. A sprawling chemical plant on the left shore of the river. Then, a cartoonishly huge power plant, whose towering stacks were the picture of mechanization and might.

Tim Johnson
Tim Johnson
Author
Toronto-based writer Tim Johnson is always traveling in search of the next great story. Having visited 140 countries across all seven continents, he’s tracked lions on foot in Botswana, dug for dinosaur bones in Mongolia, and walked among a half-million penguins on South Georgia Island. He contributes to some of North America’s largest publications, including CNN Travel, Bloomberg, and The Globe and Mail.
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