NEW YORK—As I stood at the entrance of Brasserie Orsay, I felt transported into a 19th century French salon where literati were gathered around a table, cognac in hand, discussing the brilliant works of Proust, Dumas, and Voltaire.
Entering the establishment, the scene before me was delightfully different from what I expected. I beheld a most captivating, classic Parisian setting. The room was buzzing and pulsating with the voices and presence of New York City’s movers and shakers, casually dining and relaxing.
Ah, authentic Paris in New York’s Upper Eastside! All I could do was to let myself sink into the leathered banquette to enjoy every detail.
All fixtures are handmade in France with attention to every detail—the hand-cast ceiling, the beautiful, handmade 24-foot-long, pewter-top oak bar. In bronze, gold, and white, the Italian mosaic floor in a fan-shaped design was made and assembled in France.
Not to forget, replicas of the original handsome Louis Majorelle light fixtures, found by the creative partner, Denoyer, years ago at a Parisian auction house. They hang from the ceiling, mahogany-paneled walls, over high-paneled banquettes topped with frosted glass panels, and the French doors covered with lace curtains that open to sidewalk dining.
Like being in someone’s fine home, Orsay is very comfortable with friendly, warm service.
The menu is comprised of an endless array of lighter and familiar French fare. Ingredients are simple and fresh with brilliant combinations of bright and bold flavors that respect all seasons.
Entering the establishment, the scene before me was delightfully different from what I expected. I beheld a most captivating, classic Parisian setting. The room was buzzing and pulsating with the voices and presence of New York City’s movers and shakers, casually dining and relaxing.
Ah, authentic Paris in New York’s Upper Eastside! All I could do was to let myself sink into the leathered banquette to enjoy every detail.
All fixtures are handmade in France with attention to every detail—the hand-cast ceiling, the beautiful, handmade 24-foot-long, pewter-top oak bar. In bronze, gold, and white, the Italian mosaic floor in a fan-shaped design was made and assembled in France.
Not to forget, replicas of the original handsome Louis Majorelle light fixtures, found by the creative partner, Denoyer, years ago at a Parisian auction house. They hang from the ceiling, mahogany-paneled walls, over high-paneled banquettes topped with frosted glass panels, and the French doors covered with lace curtains that open to sidewalk dining.
Like being in someone’s fine home, Orsay is very comfortable with friendly, warm service.
The menu is comprised of an endless array of lighter and familiar French fare. Ingredients are simple and fresh with brilliant combinations of bright and bold flavors that respect all seasons.
Diners might start with like the Burgundy Escargots ($12), Foie Grass “en Ballotine” ($25), Watermelon Carpaccio ($9), or the unusual hot and cold Hors D’Oevres Trolley ($16.00) served side table from a beautiful vintage carousel.
Signature dishes include pan-seared Duck Magret ($29) with orange zest and fresh herbs, simmered Lamb Shank ($24) with Moroccan spices, grilled Dover Sole ($45) or a hearty, home-style roasted Farm Chicken ($24) with lemon and thyme, served with some of the best mashed potatoes.
One can also enjoy fresh oysters and seafood tartars such as the Japonais ($22) made with tuna, wasabi, sesame, and tempura, and a choice of grilled meat and fish. There are also daily specials and a prix fixe dinner menu for $35.
Like everything else at Orsay, there is an impressive wine list, and a selection of port, cognac, and Armagnac.
Orsay’s every dish evokes pleasant and fun-filled memories. If you miss La Goulue go to Orsay, whose executive chef, Antoine Camin, also oversees La Goulue at locations in New York (temporarily closed) and Bal Harbor, Florida.
Camin started his cooking apprenticeship at 16. In France, you spend three weeks as an apprentice in a restaurant, and then you go to school. After three years one is only a cook, not a chef. In 1990 he worked at a Boston hotel and later worked for the Chicago-based restaurateur Jean Joho for six years.
Camin joined La Goulue in 2003. He prefers to keep things simple. A dish should not have more than three or four in-season ingredients. Otherwise, it becomes too complicated for both chef and diner.
No sooner did I sink into the leather settee than I was again taken back into time. The aroma of the Burgundy Escargots—bathed in fried garlic and parsley butter—brought to my neighbors’ table reminded me of an incident from my childhood. This is a dish my mother used to prepare at home. To clean the escargots, she would cover them in a pot of flour overnight. Once she forgot to put the lid on the pot. The snails escaped, and the kitchen was filled with crawling escargots.
I could both feel and see the satisfaction of the neighbors as they ate. They told me the taste was authentic and original, not over-salted, with a wonderful infusion of garlic that was not overpowering.
I have eaten at Orsay many times, and each time was memorable. This occasion was a hot August night, and I opted for cold dishes. The Watermelon Carpaccio ($9) was topped with arugula, feta cheese, and olives—a perfect contrast of flavors, textures, and colors. The crunchy, sweet melon with the smooth and salty cheese and the slight bitterness of arugula was refreshing and fabulous.
Another masterful combination of seasoning and ingredients is the Smoked Trout Timbale, enhanced with potato, cucumber, herbs, lemon, and crème fraiche. The preparation brings together a garden of flavors—a familiar tangy lemon overlaid with a rich, yet light crème fraiche, smoky, smooth, and buttery fish, some herbs, and crunchy cucumbers against soft smooth potatoes.
What would the ultimate pan-seared Bison Tenderloin ($42) be without a choice of three sauces—Béarnaise, Bordelaise, or green peppercorn. Any one of these is perfect. I chose the Béarnaise, since bison meat is leaner than beef. Should you happen to be there for lunch, try the delicious and juicy hamburger.
The dessert menu offers a tempting, heart-warming selection of classics, superbly prepared to finish any meal. The not-too-sweet yet zesty Cherry Tarte accented with a naughty touch of hot spice, the crunchy and light Profiteroles served with an addictive chocolate sauce, or an exquisite version of Peach Melba with its blend of sweet and sour.
Prices are fair and reasonable. Actually, for such a fine establishment I consider the prices good.
The service is impeccable, friendly, and efficient, allowing privacy and intimacy for the diners. One can see how genuine the staff is.
Always welcoming and smiling, El Garrahy told me that he wants his diners to feel at home, to feel comfortable, and to be well taken care of, and added, “We are in the people business. Life is all about people. We love to serve, and we serve with love.”
Location: 1057 Lexington Avenue at 75th Street
Phone: 212-517-6400
Fax: 212-517-2573
Web site: orsayrestaurant.com
Signature dishes include pan-seared Duck Magret ($29) with orange zest and fresh herbs, simmered Lamb Shank ($24) with Moroccan spices, grilled Dover Sole ($45) or a hearty, home-style roasted Farm Chicken ($24) with lemon and thyme, served with some of the best mashed potatoes.
One can also enjoy fresh oysters and seafood tartars such as the Japonais ($22) made with tuna, wasabi, sesame, and tempura, and a choice of grilled meat and fish. There are also daily specials and a prix fixe dinner menu for $35.
Like everything else at Orsay, there is an impressive wine list, and a selection of port, cognac, and Armagnac.
Orsay’s every dish evokes pleasant and fun-filled memories. If you miss La Goulue go to Orsay, whose executive chef, Antoine Camin, also oversees La Goulue at locations in New York (temporarily closed) and Bal Harbor, Florida.
Camin started his cooking apprenticeship at 16. In France, you spend three weeks as an apprentice in a restaurant, and then you go to school. After three years one is only a cook, not a chef. In 1990 he worked at a Boston hotel and later worked for the Chicago-based restaurateur Jean Joho for six years.
Camin joined La Goulue in 2003. He prefers to keep things simple. A dish should not have more than three or four in-season ingredients. Otherwise, it becomes too complicated for both chef and diner.
No sooner did I sink into the leather settee than I was again taken back into time. The aroma of the Burgundy Escargots—bathed in fried garlic and parsley butter—brought to my neighbors’ table reminded me of an incident from my childhood. This is a dish my mother used to prepare at home. To clean the escargots, she would cover them in a pot of flour overnight. Once she forgot to put the lid on the pot. The snails escaped, and the kitchen was filled with crawling escargots.
I could both feel and see the satisfaction of the neighbors as they ate. They told me the taste was authentic and original, not over-salted, with a wonderful infusion of garlic that was not overpowering.
I have eaten at Orsay many times, and each time was memorable. This occasion was a hot August night, and I opted for cold dishes. The Watermelon Carpaccio ($9) was topped with arugula, feta cheese, and olives—a perfect contrast of flavors, textures, and colors. The crunchy, sweet melon with the smooth and salty cheese and the slight bitterness of arugula was refreshing and fabulous.
Another masterful combination of seasoning and ingredients is the Smoked Trout Timbale, enhanced with potato, cucumber, herbs, lemon, and crème fraiche. The preparation brings together a garden of flavors—a familiar tangy lemon overlaid with a rich, yet light crème fraiche, smoky, smooth, and buttery fish, some herbs, and crunchy cucumbers against soft smooth potatoes.
What would the ultimate pan-seared Bison Tenderloin ($42) be without a choice of three sauces—Béarnaise, Bordelaise, or green peppercorn. Any one of these is perfect. I chose the Béarnaise, since bison meat is leaner than beef. Should you happen to be there for lunch, try the delicious and juicy hamburger.
The dessert menu offers a tempting, heart-warming selection of classics, superbly prepared to finish any meal. The not-too-sweet yet zesty Cherry Tarte accented with a naughty touch of hot spice, the crunchy and light Profiteroles served with an addictive chocolate sauce, or an exquisite version of Peach Melba with its blend of sweet and sour.
Prices are fair and reasonable. Actually, for such a fine establishment I consider the prices good.
The service is impeccable, friendly, and efficient, allowing privacy and intimacy for the diners. One can see how genuine the staff is.
Always welcoming and smiling, El Garrahy told me that he wants his diners to feel at home, to feel comfortable, and to be well taken care of, and added, “We are in the people business. Life is all about people. We love to serve, and we serve with love.”
Location: 1057 Lexington Avenue at 75th Street
Phone: 212-517-6400
Fax: 212-517-2573
Web site: orsayrestaurant.com
