Austin: Not Just Weird, but Wonderful

'Keep Austin Weird' is the rallying cry for Texas's capital, but this city is beyond weird—it's wonderful

A peaceful oasis is found at Lady Bird Lake. (Christian Horan/Four Seasons)

There was only one problem on that warm, sunny, very pleasant evening: It wasn’t bat season. Not yet. It would be a few weeks yet before thousands (and thousands, upon thousands) of these creepy-cool creatures fly out from beneath the bridge. Another problem was the lake—it’s not really a lake. But we will get to that in a minute.

I was in the capital of Texas, Austin. With a metro area with about 2.2 million people, this city is only the fourth most-populous population center in the state. But this is a place that proudly offers a diversity of experiences. “Keep Austin Weird,” is a local rallying cry. But it actually goes way beyond that.

Old New Town Lake

My boat made steady progress through the city center, the glassy skyline reflecting back a sun that was fading from brilliant to a slow ebb. “We’re on the Lower Colorado River,” said the boat captain, clarifying that it’s also not the famous waterway that flows through the Grand Canyon. But no matter its name or form, it was busy. Our little craft steered around all sorts of pleasure boats, from hard-working rowers to small peddle boats, kayaks, and also people actually fishing from paddle boards. Nothing that leaves a wake is permitted on Lady Bird Lake.

Austin residents call Lady Bird Lake “Town Lake.” It’s also a cooling pond for a former power plant. Though it was once a weed-strewn reservoir, a former mayor in the 1970s built trails along the shoreline and worked to make this place beautiful. The former First Lady pitched in, donating a significant amount from her personal accounts. Willie Nelson even played a benefit concert. Now it’s a true urban oasis.

It seemed like the whole city was out on the water that night.

Absolutely Batty

Back to the bats. “They’re about the size of a chicken nugget with wings,” said the captain, as we approached the Congress Street Bridge. During the peak season, some 1.5 million Mexican free-tail bats come here to spawn. A remarkable creature, they can fly 100 miles per hour at up to 10,000 feet. When they first arrived, they were locally unpopular. But scientists made their case, and people got comfortable with them, and now the bats are one of the primary attractions in the area. Companies even offer specialized tours.

Dance It Up, Texas-Style

(Tim Johnson)

(Tim Johnson)

Some Texans complain that, culturally, the state capital is closer to Southern California than their own traditions. But few places seem more rooted in old Texas than the Broken Spoke. Arriving on the south side of the river a little early for a two-step lesson, I pushed inside under their glaring neon sign. A small inscription next to the front hall noted: “Through this door pass the best country music dancers in the world.”

It wasn’t true, in my case. But I was eager to do my best. First, I toured the small, on-site museum showcasing the country crooners who have visited and played here (everyone from Dolly Parton to Kitty Wells and Jerry Jeff Walker). Then, I chose a table alongside the dance floor and ordered a beer. A crowd had gathered to learn the two-step. “Your toes should never break from the floor,” a tank-topped instructor told us, perhaps a little sternly. “Don’t lift ‘em! Slide ‘em!”

I am a terrible dancer—my own friends will line up and testify to that fact. But slowly, I got it. With the help of instructions like “touch-touch quick-quick slide,” I loosened up. Apparently, there are 100 different two-steps, but this was all about the original. Perhaps my childhood spent skating and playing hockey helped. But far sooner than I’d imagined, I was going with the Texas flow.

After joining a friendly couple—one from Mexico, the other from Ukraine—for a three-person two-step, I connected with a woman from Portland for a dance, and we almost got it down. Then, a line dance, four across, all dudes. Kick-kick-step-step-step. “Look at them boys!,” a woman called from the side. It felt good. And, satisfied I’d done alright, I joined the ranks of the spectators, grabbing another beer, and people-watching for the rest of the night. One overweight man in wranglers and a floral shirt did impressive spins out on the dance floor. A couple in their 80s tore things up, he in a loud jacket, she with a neon set of sunglasses, the rims literally glowing. It was weird. And truly wonderful.

All Kinds of Cultures

Eating around town was mostly just wonderful. Asian fusion barbecue at Loro. Innovative and inventive Chinese at Qi Austin. Excellent smoked meats, pretty much everywhere. And I shopped, too, along “SoCo,” South Congress Avenue, which felt like the main street of the coolest small town you can imagine. Hipster barber shops for a cut and shave. Legendary leather stores selling custom-made cowboy boots. Gourmet burger bars. I was in my own kind of heaven.

(Tim Johnson)

(Tim Johnson)

Weird and Wonderful

And again, the bats. While we were outside the prime season for spotting them—which runs from March to October—a relative handful had arrived early. Passing under the Congress Street Bridge on my boat tour, I could hear the little creatures squeaking. “Nothing on earth flies like a bat,” said the captain, shaking his head, although none appeared. No matter, it was a pleasure just to roll out onto the lake-that’s-not-a-lake, enjoying all the activity around us, on a perfect Texas evening.

If You Go

Fly: Austin-Bergstrom International Airport (AUS) welcomes flights from all major U.S. carriers, as well as nonstops from international hubs like London and Frankfurt.

Getting Around: While the capital’s public transit system is better than some in Texas, it’s best to rent a car—especially if you plan on venturing out to the wineries in nearby Hill Country.

Stay: The Four Seasons Hotel Austin sits right on the river with a spreading lawn that’s covered in cushy chairs, an excellent way to spend a sunny Sunday afternoon. Rooms are spacious and luxurious and include one of the best services around: a button on the phone to call for a margarita cart. They’ll come right up and make one for you on the spot.

A room with a lake view at the Four Seasons. (Christian Horan/Four Seasons)

Room service options at the Four Seaons include a margarita cart. (Four Seasons)

Take Note: Weekends throughout the fall can be extremely busy, especially when tens of thousands of fans descend on the city to attend Texas Longhorns football games. If you’re looking for a quieter visit (and a lower room rate), check out the team schedule at TexasSports.com.