It’s a city that looms large in the imagination—even if you don’t happen to be Irish. Leprechauns and shamrocks. James Joyce and Oscar Wilde, the River Liffey meeting the Irish Sea, U2 and The Dubliners. And of course pubs pouring Guinness, rollicking with song and energetic conversation and maybe a little dance, late into the evening.
Yes, some of these are stereotypes. But the best part of visiting Dublin? Even if you only have a day to spend there, you’ll have plenty of chances to experience the famous luck and warmth of the Irish.
EPIC, The Irish Emigration Museum, tells the story of the Irish nationals who left their country. (Tim Johnson)
That’s the case for me. While I spent time in the city on two prior occasions, this time I was arriving on a ship, anchoring in the morning and gone by sundown. So I had to plan carefully, because Dublin, which has a metro population of about 2 million, packs in so many things to see, do, and drink.
Sign for The Little Museum of Dublin, one of the most celebrated tourist sites in Dublin, Ireland. (Tim Johnson)
Proceeding into the city center, I started with a walk through history, strolling through what’s now just a pleasant little park in the heart of the hustle and bustle. But in 1916, St. Stephen’s Green was the epicenter of fierce fighting during the Easter Rising, home to barricades and trenches. Famously, both the Irish rebels and British soldiers paused their daily strife to allow the groundskeeper at the park to feed the ducks.
The guide, Lisa, gives a tour at The Little Museum of Dublin in Dublin, Ireland.
While the rebellion failed within days, it gave birth to Irish independence. In 1922, following a three-year war between the Irish Republican Army and the British, the Irish Free State was born. In 1937, the country wrote a new constitution and formally became Ireland, officially becoming a republic in 1949.
Lisa, the informative guide at The Little Museum of Dublin, gives a very informative tour covering the extent of Ireland's history. (Tim Johnson)
Just across the road from St. Stephen’s Green, I learned more about all this at the Little Museum, an unexpected find. I’d simply walked by on my way to the shops and pubs of O’Connell street, and saw signs declaring this to be Dublin’s favorite tourist attraction. Taking a tour inside, I instantly saw why.
An old typewriter is only one of the many artifacts on display at The Little Museum of Dublin in Dublin, Ireland. (Tim Johnson)
It is indeed small, and packed to the rafters with items donated by local residents. Simple found pieces, mostly, which together tell the story of a city—with the help of my guide, Lisa. With fiery red hair, an emerald green dress, and a charming lilt, she seemed straight from central casting.
“This is a gift from the city, to the city itself,” she said. “We’re going to take these little things, and tell a big story.” And she did indeed, telling 200,000 years of history in just 29 minutes, all packed into a former private home that dates to 1876.
Using as examples everything from classic typewriters to old campaign posters to millennium milk bottles, we walked through famine and war to the days of the Celtic Tiger, and beyond. She finished by singing, without accompaniment, a bittersweet song, called “The Parting Glass.”
O'Donoghue's, one of the best-known pub in Dublin, Ireland. (Tim Johnson)
Dublin is one of the world’s great walking cities, so, newly briefed on the city’s history, I decided to just stroll. Down the River Liffey, crossing the Ha’Penny Bridge. Past Trinity College, founded in 1592, which has produced so many literary greats. The list is almost ridiculously long—yes, Oscar Wilde, but also Bram Stoker and Sally Rooney and Samuel Beckett, and so many more.
Pubs form the fabric of social life in this city, and on previous visits I had spent quality time in some of the best—O’Donoghue’s, with its live music and legends still dropping by to participate in the regular jam sessions. O’Neill’s, with super-delicious pub grub, including prime rib and beef-and-Guinness stew. The Swan Bar, a last redoubt during the Easter Rising and the War of Independence, where they’ve left the bullet holes in the walls, as a reminder.
But no matter where you choose, you’ll find the craic, Irish slang for a good time. And without fail, visitors are always welcome, something you’ll feel from the second you step through the door. I popped into a random pub—not especially famous or historic—and even in the middle of the afternoon, I was soon wrapped up in conversation. Where are you from? How long are you here? Have you tried the Guinness yet?
And a favorite question when you’re in Dublin: What are you doing while you’re here? And if you pause for even a moment, just a second, they’ll be happy to let you know all the details on how, in their opinion, you should be spending your time.
Which is how I end up at EPIC: The Irish Emigration Museum, my last stop in town. In so many ways, the history of this country, going back many generations, is a story of going away. Irish culture, and Irish people, can be found on all continents. Case in point: from Kansas City to Kathmandu to Kilimanjaro, you can always find a good Irish pub, shamrock on the window, Jameson and Bailey’s and Tullamore Dew, behind the bar.
EPIC explores that process, and the reasons for it. The numbers are staggering—in just the decade following the Great Famine in the middle of the 19th century, 1.84 million Irish left for North America alone. I was given a little paper passport and walked through the process of leaving the Old Country, crossing a huge and often inhospitable ocean, and arrival in a new and unfamiliar world.
High-definition recordings of actors recount real immigrant stories. Other sections highlight the global cultural impact of these waves of emigration, from fun stuff like “Lord of the Dance” to Nobel laureates and U.S. presidents of Irish lineage.
A final neon sign declares “Ireland never leaves you.” And I really think that’s the case. As I head back to the ship, even after just one day in Dublin, it will remain with me. The songs, the laughs, of course the craic, and especially all the stories—those are a true Irish specialty.
When You Go
Fly:Dublin Airport (DUB) serves as an international hub for both Aer Lingus, the Irish national airline, and Ryanair, a major low-cost carrier. A number of other airlines offer nonstops, with direct flights from Newark, Toronto, Dallas, Washington, and other major North American cities.
Stay: A grand dame hotel in the heart of the city, The Merrion brings together a collection of Georgian townhouses into a single, elegant property. There’s plenty of Irish charms, including cracking peat fires in the lobby, where conversation often buzzes with the affairs of the country’s Parliament, located just across the road.
Getting Around: Dublin is served by a truly excellent network of buses, trams, and light rail. So if you’re planning on touring only in the city (or just nearby), you’ll have plenty of quick, efficient options to get there. In a pinch, ride-share services are also available, and drivers tend to be friendly, helpful, and chatty.
Take Note: While it sits among the British Isles, Ireland is a place apart. The republic remains a member of the European Union and uses the euro as currency, and is also part of the Schengen Zone—meaning that any flights or ferries from other Schengen countries won’t require a passport.
Toronto-based writer Tim Johnson is always traveling in search of the next great story. Having visited 140 countries across all seven continents, he’s tracked lions on foot in Botswana, dug for dinosaur bones in Mongolia, and walked among a half-million penguins on South Georgia Island. He contributes to some of North America’s largest publications, including CNN Travel, Bloomberg, and The Globe and Mail.
