Take a moment. Close your eyes. Say it out loud: “Alaska.” In your mind, what do you see? Probably all sorts of spectacular and far-flung scenes: snow-capped peaks and polar bears and blue glaciers and spouting whales. Because the 49th state is definitely a place that comes alive in our collective imagination.
And Anchorage is the largest urban center on The Last Frontier, with a population of almost 300,000 (which, for the record, is almost 40 percent of all the people living in this huge state). Walking down the numbered streets downtown, passing bars and restaurants and even a mall, you could believe you’re taking a stroll in any other midsize American city.
But don’t be fooled: Anchorage is definitely an exceptional place. It is the United States’ northernmost major city, and the municipality is massive, with an area larger than Rhode Island. Residents experience 22 hours of daylight in the summer (plus, lots of northern lights in the winter). Sometimes called “Anchortown,” Anchorage is within a 50-mile radius of some 60 glaciers, and you can spot six different mountain ranges from right in town.
Arrival
Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC) is named for the state’s longest-serving senator who, remarkably, remained in that office from 1968 to 2009. This is Alaska’s largest and busiest airport, built in the early 1950s, and was once connected to an Air Force base. A fun fact: In the 1980s, during the Cold War, ANC was known as the “Crossroads of the World.” Many European airlines, avoiding the restricted airspace in communist countries, used Anchorage as a stopover en route to destinations in Asia.
Those days are over, but the airport is still a bustling place. It’s a hub for Alaska Airlines and serviced by all major U.S. carriers, which means that ANC is extremely well-connected to the rest of the United States. Nonstop flights arrive from many major U.S. cities, including Chicago, Atlanta, Dallas, Denver, and lots more. However, international flights are limited, so those coming from overseas will probably have a hop, somewhere else.
Morning
After a long flight from the continental United States, you’ll be ready to stretch your legs and breathe some nonrecycled air. First, fortify any feeble meal that may have been served on the flight at Kaladi Brothers Coffee, a local chain. Its hot and cold brews are prepared with air-roasted beans, and its cozy location on Tudor Road is well-known among locals for excellent cinnamon buns.
Then, walk just more than half a mile, along city streets and the nearby Chugach Foothills Trail, to the Alaska Botanical Garden. This green space covers about 110 acres and provides an excellent introduction to Alaska’s unique flora.
Paths curve through spruce and birch forest. Take a wildflower walk, and make sure to visit the Rock Garden, which includes more than 350 species of alpine plants. In autumn, the garden dresses up for Halloween and, near Christmas, sparkles with lights.
Now you have a choice. For those who prefer to spend the rest of the morning outside, the Far North Bicentennial Park is adjacent. It is almost unimaginably huge, as a city park, covering about 4,000 acres at the foot of the mountains. (New York City’s Central Park, by comparison, is 843 acres.)
Hike and mountain bike; or, in winter, cross-country ski, or ride along the trails on fat tire bicycles. Keep your eyes open for the wildlife that make the Far North their home—moose, black and brown bears, and lynx.
But those looking for a taste of the area’s culture should hop in a taxi or Uber and head to the Anchorage Museum, about 20 minutes to the northwest. This is definitely the kind of place where a person could spend an entire day (or two). It is very big—more than 40,000 square feet—and endlessly compelling.
Purposed with exploring the history and art and people of Alaska, galleries include multiple displays with regalia and artifacts from the state’s indigenous people. Plus, it features boomtown history and romantic paintings of the state’s sweeping landscapes.
Afternoon
Now, it’s time for lunch. Keep it casual at 49th State Brewing. On foot, the brewpub is about half a mile (or 15 minutes) from the museum. Otherwise, a cab takes less than five.If the weather is fair, sit on the rooftop and enjoy the expansive views all the way to the mountains. Recommended: the famous halibut and chips, made with local fish and beer-battered with 49th State’s own brew. The really hungry should grab a bowl of the seafood chowder to start.
From there, take a short stroll to the waters of the Knik Arm, which are lined with parks, museums and monuments. The latter include an orca sculpture and a statue of British explorer Capt. James Cook. In season, make sure to keep looking offshore—you might spot adorable beluga whales.
But save some time to get out of town, and rest your legs—preferably in the air. It’s a loop back down to the Lake Hood Seaplane Base (which is right next to ANC), about 15 minutes by car, but totally worth it.
Lake Hood is the world’s busiest seaplane base, with some 200 flights a day. There’s even a control tower and a “runway” across the water, which consists of two lakes connected by a canal. Climb aboard a float plane with a company called Rust’s Flying Service.
Evening
Time to wind down. The most popular hotels are downtown, close to Orso. This well-loved restaurant focuses on local fish and meat. Think king crab and salmon and rockfish and (again) halibut. But if you’ve had your fill of seafood, the steaks are pretty great, too.
If you still have the energy, finish the day searching for some spirits. Sign up for a one-hour Arctic Abyss: Ashes to Ice Anchorage Ghost Tour. An enthusiastic, costumed guide leads small groups through haunted hotels and other scary sites, telling chilling tales, all along the way.
The rest of the evening is yours to enjoy. In the summer, soak up some midnight sun—or perhaps the aurora borealis will light up the night in the darker, cooler months. Either way, it’s a great way to finish your day in America’s northernmost major city.
Add a Trip to Denali
If at all possible, add a side trip to Denali National Park. It’s an absolutely wondrous place. Imagine: 6 million acres, filled with lakes, rivers, taiga (boreal forest), and tundra. Plus, so many animals—including grizzlies, coyotes, foxes and Dall sheep—roam these wilds. Everything is crowned, of course, by the tallest mountain on the continent, Mount McKinley, which rises 20,310 feet. (Be warned: The peak is often shrouded in clouds.)Take a scenic flight around the summit, go whitewater rafting, or enjoy a backcountry bus tour. Or simply sit on the balcony of your lodge and listen to a rushing creek. It’s easily possible to drive—only about 4 1/2 hours by road, if you go straight through. Even better: Take the train. The Denali Star Train rolls right out of central Anchorage, and the views along the track from the top-deck dome car are absolutely stunning.
A Word on the Aurora Borealis
Honestly—you never forget the first time you see the northern lights. It’s a story people tell for a lifetime: the night sky illuminated from somewhere in the firmament, everything swirling and whirling and shimmering.It’s a common misconception that they’re visible only in the winter. The reality is that when you’re this far north, you simply need enough night to make the lights visible. (The midnight sun is wonderful, but it drowns out the aurora.) In Anchorage, they’re often in the sky from the middle of August right through April.
