Rising from the sea like something from a fairy tale, Mont-Saint-Michel challenges your sense of reality. An island that’s sometimes not an island. A geological wonder that’s also a geographic oddity. A fortress and an abbey and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At high tide, the whole place seems to hover over the water, and when it’s out, the seemingly impregnable surroundings become a sandy stretch explored by the curious and the brave. But one thing is certain: When you arrive and see it for the first time—ramparts, stonework, and buildings that seem to grow right out of the granite, all crowned by a soaring steeple capped by an angel—you won’t quite believe your eyes.
And it all started with a dream—actually, three—or so the legend goes. They say that back in the early eighth century, the archangel Michael (Michel, in French) appeared to Aubert, the bishop of Avranches, in his sleep. Twice, Michael told the man to establish a sanctuary in his name on what was then known as Monte-Tombe. The third time, he drove home the point, poking his finger into the bishop’s skull. Aubert responded, sending messengers to bring back the relics of the archangel from Italy, then dedicated the sanctuary in the year 709. (As a side trip, it’s worth checking out the Church of Saint-Gervais in Avranches, which has preserved the skull of Aubert, complete with its hole.)
Pilgrims followed, and layer upon layer, the place grew. In 966, the Duke of Normandy established a commune of Benedictine monks. By 1000, they had built the Church of Notre-Dame-sous-Terre, now under the nave of the current abbey, and a place you can still visit. Kings of both France and England came here. The Gothic Merveille was created by medieval builders in the 13th century. Le Mont was a bastion, never captured during the Hundred Years War (1337–1453), repelling invaders with just a handful of knights on hand during furious sieges. And it was a prison, too, from the 17th to the 19th century.
Now it’s a place to explore, starting with a closer examination of shifting worlds created by those tides. At low tide, the water recedes out to sea, meaning you can actually walk over, and all around, on dry land. But while predictable, they can also be treacherous—anyone on the island will readily tell you stories about overzealous adventurers who didn’t watch their time and ended up in a bad spot. Some of Europe’s most dramatic tides, rushing in at 200 feet per minute and rising as much as 45 feet, also create pools of quicksand that can trap the unwary. Fortunately, you can book a walking tour with a guide who is well aware of all the factors at play. Doing so is a cool opportunity to get a new perspective on the island, looking up from its base, over the ramparts, to the golden figure of Michael, at more than 300 feet high, triumphing over a dragon.
Mont-St-Michel is also home to some worthwhile museums, including one dedicated to local maritime culture and ecology, and an “archeoscope,” a multimedia show based on the history and whimsical stories here. It’s also a great spot for souvenir hunting, a tradition that dates back to the days of the pilgrims. And make sure to take your time when you visit the abbey.
Make your way along the winding streets in town to the top of the mount, proceeding inside after paying the entrance fee of 10 euros (about $12). A walk-through will take you through the centuries of construction, blending a wide spectrum of styles. But you’ll marvel at the Merveille. A gothic wonder that includes three layered levels and 16 buttresses, this crown jewel of the abbey was built during the power and prosperity of 13th-century Normandy. This section took 17 years to construct and rises 115 feet. Each floor serves a unique purpose—on the lowest, the chaplaincy met weary pilgrims arriving at their destination. On the second, a dining hall where fireplaces once warded off the chilly night air. On top, the cloisters and the monks’ refectory.
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