An overhead view taken by a drone provides context to St. Louis Cathedral’s size and location. Even in modernity, the circa-1851 structure surpasses the surrounding buildings of the historic French Quarter. It sits in a crescent of the mighty Mississippi River and is located in the same place that Catholic churches have occupied for more than 300 years. (Courtesy of the Archdiocese of New Orleans)
As its spires seemingly yearn for heaven, the imposing St. Louis Cathedral overlooks New Orleans’s Jackson Square, the center of the French Quarter. Since the city’s founding in 1718, Catholics had attended church services in a wooden structure on the banks of the Mississippi River. A brick-and-timber building was erected in 1727.
The present structure bears the remnants of fires, hurricanes, and even a still-unsolved dynamite explosion in 1909, which blew out windows and damaged galleries. Within the square—designed to resemble the Palais-Royal in Paris—the church features architecture considered modern French romanticism in the Néo-Grec style.
The three dominant spires were originally made of wood and wrought iron, but they were covered in slate in 1859. The central tower was designed by Benjamin Latrobe; a bell and clock were soon added. After the Battle of New Orleans, “Victoire” (“Victory”) was embossed on the bell.
J.N.B. de Pouilly worked on the design plans for enlarging the structure for a growing congregation, and, in 1849, John Patrick Kirwan enlarged and restored the church using de Pouilly’s plans. However, after many construction problems, Kirwan and de Pouilly were replaced. A new church was built in 1850.
The church sits near other historic buildings—the Cabildo (the former Spanish city hall), the Presbytère (formerly used by the Louisiana Supreme Court), and a block of Pontalba buildings graced with iron lace work.
St. Louis Cathedral’s triple-spire façade has made it widely recognizable, not only in New Orleans but throughout the South and the nation. There's symmetry in the two outward spires with star-topped cross adornments, balanced columns and arched windows, and dominant spire as the center point. In 1819, a clock tower—originally backlit by gas—was added; the current front-view clock is a replica of the original early-19th-century clock. (Courtesy of the Archdiocese of New Orleans)
Two stone angels grace the holy water fonts, and the ceiling of the cathedral features a painted canvas depicting various Biblical scenes that's affixed to the plaster. Additionally, the painting over the altar depicts St. Louis, King Louis IX of France, calling for the Crusades. The flags on display represent the nations that at different times ruled over the territory, and the stained-glass windows depict the life of St. Louis. Wooden pews seat approximately 1,000 people. (Courtesy of the Archdiocese of New Orleans)
The organ was installed in 2004 by the Holtkamp Organ Company of Cleveland. Rising 54 feet above the floor of the choir loft, it weighs more than 30 tons and sports more than 4,500 pipes, ranging in length from a few inches to 32 feet. Dentil molding-adorned columns flank the organ. (Courtesy of the Archdiocese of New Orleans)
Many of the stained-glass windows at St. Louis Cathedral, such one showing St. Louis, for whom the cathedral is named, are about 100 years old. However, in 2015, the former baptistery of the cathedral was dedicated as the Venerable Henriette Delille Prayer Room with two newly commissioned stained-glass windows by local artist Ruth Goliwas. The stained glass communicates Delille's focus on bringing nonwhite children to the Catholic faith through baptism. (Courtesy of the Archdiocese of New Orleans)
At the center of the intricate gilded altar are rays of light representing a focus on heaven, as well as the Communion of Saints. The tabernacle is flanked by angels, while the altar is set off by impressive statues of St. Peter holding the keys to the kingdom of God and St. Paul carrying a sword in memory of his martyrdom and a book in memory of his extensive preaching and writing of the New Testament. (Courtesy of the Archdiocese of New Orleans)
The rear view of St. Louis Cathedral provides a glimpse into what is called St. Anthony’s Garden, which features a marble statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Although much less elaborate than its front, the back view of the cathedral also conveys the balanced architectural elements of columns and arches, with an exterior clock—similar to the one over the cathedral’s entryway—offered to visitors of the garden as well. (Courtesy of the Archdiocese of New Orleans)
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A 30-plus-year writer-journalist, Deena C. Bouknight works from her Western North Carolina mountain cottage and has contributed articles on food culture, travel, people, and more to local, regional, national, and international publications. She has written three novels, including the only historical fiction about the East Coast’s worst earthquake. Her website is DeenaBouknightWriting.com
