KOTOR, Montenegro—For a while, I wasn’t sure we would make it.
Burly and jovial and smiling, Mico grasped my hand in a hearty handshake at the airport and then, my bags loaded in the back, him behind the wheel of a minivan with me in the passenger seat, we were winding through the Mediterranean mountains, with Mico telling me tales of his home country. Soon, we were descending toward the sea, and that’s when we started to swerve.