Alaska challenges the imagination and then delivers a reality bigger, wider, and more wonderful than anything you could ever envision. Its nicknames say it all: the last frontier, the great land. It is a place where gold miners came from unbelievable distances, from around the world, to find their fortune. And it continues to draw adventure-seekers from across the Earth, daily delivering so many natural treasures.
Anchorage, the 49th state’s largest city (but not its capital), sits surrounded by wonders. On several visits there, I’ve come to appreciate both the modern conveniences in town and the culture and history of this city of fewer than half a million people.
Arrival
Not surprisingly, given its location at the edge of the Arctic, Alaska’s Ted Stevens International Airport (ANC) has a long and rather illustrious history. The airport is now named for the state’s longest-serving senator, but began life in the 1950s, connected to an Air Force base.During Cold War days, communist countries (including the neighboring Soviet Union) restricted their airspace to flights from the West. So European carriers would use ANC as a stopover on the way to Asia, earning it the nickname “the Crossroads of the World.”
Direct flights from Europe are now few and far between. A seasonal nonstop from Frankfurt, Germany, on German carrier Condor is one notable exception. I flew that route last year in Condor’s business-class cabin, and it was a pleasure. It was also a great convenience to finish one trip in Europe and begin a very different one in Alaska, without the need to land and connect anywhere else.
Alaska, and Alaska
When people picture this remote, massive state—where more than 20 contiguous states could fit inside its borders—they picture a log cabin on a lake alongside polar bears, Kodiaks, and salmon leaping upstream across an endless wilderness.
All those spellbinding stereotypes are absolutely true. But I remember the first time I strolled down Fourth Avenue; I could have squinted and imagined myself in many other mid-sized American cities. There are bars and restaurants serving a preponderance of fresh seafood, along with a downtown mall and big box stores on the outskirts.
This balance makes Anchorage two distinct things: It is a destination in itself, but it is also the perfect jumping-off point at which to stock up on everything you need if your journey is taking you into the wilderness—or even onto a dome car on the Alaska Railroad bound for Denali National Park and Fairbanks.
Hinterland, Right in the City
Anchorage’s number-grid system of streets can, as mentioned, feel almost Midwestern, but once you venture just a little farther, the outdoors is right there—even on foot. For example, the pier at the small boat launch, part of the Port of Anchorage, is an easy few minutes’ walk from the heart of town.If you’re lucky, you’ll spot belugas as they hunt their favorite prey, salmon, near the outlet of Knik Arm. Although I didn’t see any on my visit, sitting on a bench to chat with locals while watching both wheeled and pontoon aircraft take off and land from nearby airports served as a cool consolation for an aviation enthusiast.
Footnote: Those looking for a short drive can hop in a ride-share or rent a vehicle to head 20 to 25 minutes south along Turnagain Arm. At Beluga Point, visitors in season have a great chance of spotting cold-water whales. You can then double back to the Potter Marsh Wildlife Viewing Platform, where an easy stroll offers opportunities to see bald eagles, sandhill cranes, black and brown bears, and moose.
Anchorage Museum
Usually, I skip city and national museums because the content can feel predictable and static. I didn’t expect much on my first visit to the Anchorage Museum, especially given its straightforward name, but a local friend told me to allow at least a whole morning to tour it. She could have said a week and been just as correct.From the moment I stepped inside this bright, beautiful, 40,000-square-foot space downtown, I was wrapped in compelling narratives across room after room and exhibit after exhibit. Displays focus on everything from gold rush boomtown tales to accounts of how early explorers mapped the Arctic. Plus, you will find hundreds of artifacts, including sealskin clothing, drums, and ceremonial masks from Inuit groups across the state. As a tip, don’t miss the gallery of romantic paintings, which serves as an additional enticement to get out into nature.
So Many Float Planes
Alaska is a state where roads cover only a tiny fraction of its vastness, leaving four out of five communities inaccessible by car or truck. Interestingly, Juneau is the only state capital unconnected to the outside world by a continuous highway.Because of this, Alaska far outpaces the rest of the nation in per-capita pilot’s licenses by a factor of about six to one. In town, you can see this in action by taking a walking tour of the Lake Hood Seaplane Base. Here, on two lakes connected by a canal, some 200 planes take off or land every day, and about 1,000 pontoon planes are moored alongside its docks.
To really experience it, you should take a flight tour, which I consider the No. 1 must-do activity in Anchorage. Even if you only have a couple of hours, companies such as Rust’s Flying Service will show you incredible marvels.
Taking off in a float plane from Lake Hood—which has its own control tower and airport code, LHD—is an experience in itself. On my tour, we bobbed out over small waves on the lake before the propellers revved up along the canal. We skimmed forward until we lifted off, suddenly airborne.
Going (Just) Beyond
It is a great idea to book several nights in an Anchorage hotel and use it as a base from which to explore the nearby wilderness, allowing you to experience the region without the stress of constantly repacking.
On one visit, I enjoyed a day trip to Seward by rising early to catch the Coastal Classic Train, a winding four-hour ride south through valleys and past boreal forests. Just out the window, emerald met electric blue while the steady rhythm of the rails provided a soundtrack to the scenery. Upon arrival, I had a seven-hour stopover to explore the picturesque town.
You can also step onto a catamaran headed deep into Kenai Fjords National Park, as marine departures are scheduled to coincide with the train’s arrival. Once aboard, every turn of the boat revealed extraordinary sights, from icy walls of glaciers ready to calve into the ocean to seals basking on rocks. On the return trip, our boat was even surrounded by a pod of killer whales. Tired from the fresh air on the ride back, I enjoyed a steaming coffee in the dining car while looking forward to a late-night bite of king crab back on Fourth Avenue.
