It should have been a fairly straightforward two-hour highway-drive due south from Indianapolis International Airport. But thanks to some lost signal, an outdated GPS, and perhaps a bit of Google’s mysterious hankerings for the road not taken, I found myself on narrow, unlined country roads and even ended up on a dirt lane for a bit. But the beauty of forest right up to the edge of the road, the surprising hills of southern Indiana, and a weaving path with the occasional intrusion of a small farm have their charm.
My destination, French Lick and West Baden Springs, known together as Springs Valley, are conjoined historic spa towns dating back to the 19th century, and home to respective namesake hotels listed in the National Register of Historic Places. I could appreciate a drive through scenery that recalled a time before interstates or even state highways. Like these country roads, the story of French Lick is one of rise and fall and rise.
