The ability to imagine a pizza at any moment is one of the skills of being a lifelong Chicagoan. Any bread-like offering, from yeasted dough to flatbread to crackers, can become a pizza.
Case in point: Walking through the Wednesday market in Sanary-sur-Mer, a coastal resort town on the Mediterranean between Bandol and Toulon in southeastern France, we thought about pizza. Sure, fresh tomatoes and a variety of cheeses filled market stalls. But the wedges of warm cade, bought from a vendor with a blazing wood-fired oven, made us think of pizza.
Topped with fruity French olive oil and a sprinkle of coarse salt, the warm chickpea flour flatbread sparked our imaginations. Similar to Nice’s socca, cade uses slightly less water to make a thicker pancake. In Italy, this pancake is known as farinata.
No matter the name or thickness, this crispy-edged pancake is easier to make than yeasted dough. Simply stir together chickpea flour, salt, water, and olive oil, then pour the mixture into a hot, oiled pan. Bake briefly. Chickpea flour sets up like its corn cousin, polenta. Once baked, the pancake is firm enough to eat with your hands while still warm.
At home, I had other plans. Adding a topping transforms the pancake into a gluten-free pizza that serves as an appetizer or a light main dish. Like any good pizza, the amount of topping should match the crust.
A swipe of rich tomato sauce, sauteed onions, sausage crumbles, and melting cheese satisfies the Chicagoan. For a Provencal-style version, swap tomato sauce for black olive spread and add sauteed zucchini.
In southern France, a traditional copper-lined pan is used. At home, a heavy-duty pizza pan or cast-iron skillet works well for this purpose. A rimmed baking sheet also does the trick.
Baking the flatbread in a wood-fired oven recreates the French market experience. A tabletop pizza oven, such as an Ooni, does this nicely. A gas grill with a packet of wood chips for extra smoke works, too, but the burners under the pan must be turned off for indirect cooking. An indoor oven can work as well—add a pinch of smoked paprika for a hint of smoky flavor.
Look for chickpea flour at most large supermarkets and Middle Eastern grocery stores. The finer the grind, the better for this pancake. Bob’s Red Mill is a good option. Make the batter and let it stand while you prepare the toppings.
Of course, you can enjoy the pancake plain, cut into wedges as a side with grilled seafood or roasted tomato soup. A glass of chilled Provencal rosé wine or a cold beer always pairs nicely.
Chickpea Pancake Pizza With Olives and Cheesy Zucchini
Serves 4 to 6- 1 1/2 cups (8 ounces) chickpea flour
- 1 teaspoon herbs de Provence (or 1/4 teaspoon each: thyme, basil, rosemary, oregano)
- Salt, freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika, optional
- 1 1/2 cups hot water or low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
- 8 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/3 cup (2 ounces) diced pancetta or bacon
- 1 large sweet onion, halved, thinly sliced
- 1 each: small green zucchini, small yellow squash (total 1 pound), ends trimmed, thinly sliced
- 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 1/4 to 1/3 cup black olive tapenade or Kalamata olive spread, see note
- 1 cup (2.5 ounces) shredded Comte, Gruyere or Swiss cheese
- 1/4 cup sliced fresh basil leaves
Heat a large nonstick skillet until hot, then add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 1/3 cup pancetta, and sliced onion. Cook, stirring often, until onion is soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in sliced zucchini and yellow squash. Cook, stirring often, until zucchini is soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute. Remove from heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper
Heat oven to 425 degrees F on convection or 450 degrees F on conventional setting. When the oven is hot, set a large (12- to 14-inch) cast-iron skillet or a 15-by-10-inch rimmed heavy-duty baking sheet in the center of the oven and let it heat up.
Working carefully, swirl remaining 3 tablespoons of the oil over the bottom of the hot pan. Then add the batter, spreading it evenly over the pan. Bake until the batter is set and top is golden, about 13 minutes. Remove from oven.
Spread the pancake with the olive paste. Then scatter the zucchini and onions over the pancake. Top with shredded cheese and return to oven to melt cheese, about 2 minutes. Serve cut into wedges topped with basil and extra herbs de Provence.
Note: Make your own olive spread by blending 1/2 to 1 cup pitted Kalamata olives, 1 clove garlic, and 2 tablespoons olive oil to a paste in a small food processor or blender.
