More than 70 years ago, on May 3, 1956, a musical opened on Broadway called “Most Happy Fella.” It changed the fortunes of the entire U.S. wine industry in a curious way.
The musical had a showstopper song with a line that said, “I’m the most happy fella, in the whole Napa Valley.” From that moment, Napa Valley was associated in the minds of many as America’s wine country, which was verified for millions 20 years later when a Napa cabernet sauvignon was declared the victor in a heralded Paris tasting.
In 1976, California wine was seen around the world as a novelty. Yet dozens of U.S. areas were developing as wine regions at that moment. Though all the other regions were overlooked, Napa became king.
By contrast, Sonoma County was merely that vast property on the other side of the hill. Napa was compact and easy to understand.
In wine circles, however, Sonoma had vastly more diversity. Part of its attraction was that it was developing a series of distinctive American viticultural areas (AVAs) that would define it: It was diverse.
Sonoma soon developed a reputation for greatness in literally a dozen grape varieties; Napa was seen as a monoculture featuring increasingly concentrated cabernets that could command outrageously high prices.
Sonoma’s AVA growth was more rapid than anyone imagined. By the late 80s, the county had expanded into numerous sub-regions, some of which needed to have sub-regional names to make them meaningful.
As a result, the designations Carneros (best for chardonnay and pinot noir), Russian River Valley (best for Pinot Noir and numerous other grapes), the cool Sonoma Coast and the Petaluma Gap, Sonoma Valley and many others began to tell the tale of Sonoma County’s diversity.
One relatively new AVA (approved a decade ago) is the Fountaingrove AVA. When it was approved by the government, it created a potentially fascinating growing region, one that will require at least another decade before it is understood.
The area’s volcanic soils differ from other nearby regions and give the wines a unique character.
Without significant active participation by growers and wineries in the area, recognition of the area’s qualities will be slow. As with all AVAs, broad input leads to members spreading the local message.
With only 600 vine acres and a median parcel size of 12 acres, Fountaingrove is small. It is a relatively cool area that will make some stellar red wines.
Superb winemaker Carol Shelton makes a Fountaingrove red wine blend and a Zinfandel, both of which have won medals at wine competitions.
Most wine lovers know of Alexander Valley, Dry Creek and many of the other well-established Sonoma County AVAs, but know less about Bennett Valley, Moon Mountain, Rockpile, and Pine Mountain—some of the more recent additions to the AVA list
Fountaingrove is one of the newest AVAs in Sonoma. Its real meaning to consumers will only become evident after more of its wines are seen.
All it needs now is a Broadway musical to tout its greatness.
Wine of the Week: 2025 Balletto Rose of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($20)
Some of the best pink wines made in the world come from the south of France and are based on Grenache. Russian River Valley specializes in Pinot Noir for its best roses. This one is delightfully delicious. The winery describes it: “This wine is fun and lively. Savory guava, watermelon and lime combine with a light, delicate texture to make this pretty and delicious wine. It is made from estate-grown Pinot Noir ... It was cold fermented to complete dryness in stainless steel to enhance its focus.” Hot day? This is your go-to cooler-offer.
