As the Weather Warns Up. It’s Time for a California Classic

This recipe can be cooked on the stove and also on the grill when the weather warms.

Grilled swordfish gets its flavor from a zesty marinade. Diane Rossen Worthington/TCA

As the author of “The Cuisine of California” and “The California Cook,” I have researched California cooking history throughout the 20th century. From patio cooks to garden salads, modern California Cuisine has evolved a lot. This succulent swordfish dish originally relied on mesquite wood to add a smokey sweet flavor to the marinated fish. Today, I cook it on a gas grill or stovetop grill with the tangy, sweet-tart flavor contrast of lemon, garlic, and fresh ginger. As the weather warms up, this would be nice to barbecue on your outdoor grill.

Swordfish has a high mercury level and is recommended to be eaten occasionally (once a month or less), but is worth enjoying on occasion with this zesty marinade. You can use other firm-fleshed fish like shark, tuna, and halibut with this marinade.

I have often accompanied this dish with a full-bodied Napa chardonnay, but as time has gone by I prefer a California or New Zealand sauvignon blanc or a French Sancerre with the fish. Try different varietals and see which one you prefer. Serve with vegetable rice or couscous and a saute of zucchini and carrots.

Swordfish in Lemon-Ginger Marinade

Serves 6

Note: Lime juice and zest may be substituted for lemon.

• 6 swordfish steaks, 1/3 to 1/2 pound each and no more than 1 inch thick

For the marinade:

• 1/2 cup lemon juice
• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped lemon zest
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 tablespoons oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine marinade ingredients in a medium bowl. Whisk until blended. Taste for seasoning. Remove 1/4 cup of marinade for finishing the swordfish.

In a large, shallow nonaluminum dish, arrange fish steaks, and pour marinade over. Marinate fish for 2 to 4 hours in refrigerator

Prepare barbecue for medium-heat grilling or heat grill pan. Remove fish from marinade. Grill fish about 3 inches from flame 3 to 5 minutes on each side, depending upon their thickness. Place the fish on serving plates.

Heat remaining marinade in a small saucepan over medium heat. Pour some of the remaining marinade over each steak. Garnish with parsley springs. serve immediately

Advance preparation: The dish may be made ahead through Step 2 up to four hours ahead. Refrigerate.

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