The Fierce Women of Bolhão

In Porto, generations have kept alive a century-old market—and its stories and traditions

One of the eldest vendors at the market, Albina da Silva remembers hauling hundreds of crates of produce onto the train from Gondomar to Bolhão. Ryan Opaz

To find the heart of a city, look no further than its market. And to find the soul of a market, just look to its people.

At Bolhão Market in Porto, Portugal, most of those people are tough-skinned, sharp-tongued grandmothers hiding hearts of gold under multi-colored sweaters. They peel produce and wield fish knives with precision, exchanging gossip and melancholy verses of fado.