Chives and mint sprigs have been pushing up in the garden for several weeks now. Thankfully, much of this country will see the first skinny, emerald green asparagus spears and tiny, tender peas at local farmers markets soon.
Green is the color of spring itself, especially the green of a perfectly cooked asparagus or pile of sweet peas. The first step for either vegetable involves a little time. To prepare asparagus, soak it in cold water with several changes to remove all grit from the tips of the stalks. For peas, employ some patience while shucking them from their tough pods.
Farmers market asparagus may vary in length and thickness, with some having curved stalks while others are straight. I prefer medium thick stalks over super skinny or jumbo versions. Deep purple asparagus seems to have more flavor when cooked; just know that they, too, turn green when heated. Look for pretty tips and wrap the ends (not the tips) in a damp towel before storing them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Just before cooking, trim off the tough ends with a knife and lightly peel about 2 inches up the stem if desired.
Freshly shucked peas will turn your opinion about peas upside down. The bright, crisp orbs taste nothing like the canned or frozen peas of childhood. Don’t wait too long to cook them once they are out of their pods—they taste sweetest just after shucking. Sugar snap peas and snow peas often show up in the spring markets; they are cooked and eaten, pod and all.
Spring’s small, firm zucchini make the best, curly, long, spaghetti-shaped noodles. Trim off the ends and then use a spiralizer or julienne peeler to pull long “noodles” down the length of the zucchini. If you make them ahead (or purchase zucchini noodles from the store) set the noodles on paper towels to absorb excess moisture.
This simple stew combines the best of spring. Seasoning the vegetable cooking water always adds to the flavor of the final dish. For a lovely main dish, set a small ball of burrata cheese in the center of a shallow serving bowl. Top with the warm vegetable mixture. Or, add cooked gnocchi or boiled tiny new potatoes to the finished dish.
If you have access to small artichokes, cut them into quarters and boil in salted water until tender when pierced with a fork. Scoop out and discard the prickly choke; add the artichokes to the finished dish.
Spring Vegetables With Fresh Mozzarella and Herbs
Serves 4 to 6- Salt
- 1 bunch (16 ounces) medium-sized asparagus spears, ends trimmed
- 1 cup (3 ounces) shelled fresh green peas
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 ounces diced pancetta or bacon or strips of thinly sliced prosciutto
- 1 knob onion or 2 green onions, trimmed, finely chopped including green
- 2 or 3 cloves garlic, very thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons flour
- 1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth
- 1 or 2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream, optional
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 2 cups (6 ounces) fresh zucchini spirals or very thin slices
- 1 carton (15 ounces) small fresh mozzarella pearls, drained
- 3 tablespoons thinly sliced chives
- 1 or 2 teaspoons thinly sliced fresh mint leaves
2. Heat oil in large 12-inch nonstick skillet. Add pancetta and onion. Cook until pancetta is golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in garlic; cook 1 minute. Stir in flour and cook 1 minute. Gradually stir in broth and optional cream. Cook and stir until thickened, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
3. Add zucchini; cook to lightly coat zucchini with the sauce, about 1 minute. Stir in peas and asparagus and turn vegetables in the sauce to coat them and heat them through.
4. Remove from heat. Stir in mozzarella balls. Serve in wide bowls. Garnish with chives and mint.
