Alice had magical “eat me” cakes; chef Sol Han has bungeo-ppang.
The fish-shaped pastry, a popular Korean street snack, is traditionally a springy, waffle-like shell stuffed with sweetened red bean paste. Han flips it savory by nixing the filling, flavoring the batter like a scallion pancake—a nod to a childhood staple—and serving it with black garlic butter, as part of a quartet of snacks that opens a five-course tasting menu.
