For New Orleans-born and bred chef David Guas, gâteau de sirop is “hands-down the best darn gingerbread on earth.” This Cajun “syrup cake” is made with fresh, grated ginger and copious amounts of cane syrup, a Louisiana specialty that Mr. Guas describes as “kind of like the lovechild of molasses and sorghum.”
Introduced to the region by Jesuits over two centuries ago, the process of harvesting sugarcane in the fall and boiling it down into sticky-sweet cane syrup has become a key part of Louisiana culinary history. Mr. Guas, known for his role as co-judge on cooking shows such as “Chopped” and his philanthropic work with charities such as Chefs Feeding Families, is also a staunch champion of New Orleans’s culinary heritage.
His restaurant Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar, and Eatery brings NOLA-style dishes to Arlington, Virginia; his second restaurant, Neutral Ground Bar and Kitchen, is set to open in 2024.
Mr. Guas considers gâteau de sirop a taste of his hometown for the holidays.
“Served warm with plenty more syrup poured over the top, it’s layered comfort on a plate,” he said. “A hulking slice brings me straight to Vermilion Parish.”
Chef David Guas. (Scott Suchman)
Gâteau de Sirop
Makes one 9-inch cake
1 piecefresh ginger, about 4 inches long, peeled and grated
1 tablespoonunsalted butter, at room temperature
2 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoonsall-purpose flour, divided
2 teaspoonsbaking soda
1/2 teaspoonground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoonsalt
1 1/2 cupsSteen’s cane syrup plus extra for serving (optional)
1 cup peanut oil or vegetable oil
1 cuplight brown sugar
1 teaspoonhot sauce (preferably Crystal’s)
2 eachlarge eggs
Place the ginger in a small saucepan. Pour 1 cup of water over the ginger and bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn off the heat and let the ginger steep for 5 minutes, and then strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve placed over a bowl. Press on the ginger to extract all the liquid, discard the ginger pulp, and set the ginger water aside.
Heat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease a 9-inch cake pan with the butter. Add the 2 tablespoons of flour to the pan and shake to coat the bottom and sides. Tap out the excess and set the pan aside. Whisk the remaining 2 1/2 cups of flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt together in a large bowl and set aside.
Pour 1 cup of the cane syrup, the oil, brown sugar, ginger water, and hot sauce into the bowl of a stand mixer (or into a large bowl if using a hand mixer) and whisk to combine. Whisk in the eggs one at a time and add the dry ingredients all at once. Using the paddle attachment, beat the mixture on low speed until the batter is smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl using a rubber spatula, and then pour the batter into the prepared cake pan.
Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean and the center resists slight pressure, about 1 hour. Place the cake on a cooling rack to cool for 15 minutes. Using a cake tester or a fork, poke lots of holes into the top of the cake, going all the way through to just shy of the bottom of the cake. Pour the remaining 1/2 cup of the cane syrup over the top of the cake and let it sit for at least 1 hour before slicing. Serve straight from the pan while still warm or at room temperature, with extra cane syrup poured over the top. You can also unmold it for presentation, but be sure to pour more cane syrup over it before serving.
Recipe adapted from “DamGoodSweet: Desserts to Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth, New Orleans Style” by David Guas.
