Traditional roasted turkey with chestnut brown pan gravy and sage-bread stuffing at Thanksgiving never gets boring. The roast fills the house with a holiday aroma. Spirits rise and mouths water. We don’t mess with a tradition.
Sides, however, let us keep things interesting. We draw inspiration from our travels and a pantry shelf full of foodie gifts. This year, a present containing sumac from a friend’s Mediterranean cruising seasons mashed sweet potatoes. The bright, tangy flavor of dried sumac cuts the sweetness of the potato. Plain yogurt does the same, while a hunk of butter keeps the mash feeling very holiday indeed.
Sweet potato love has grown. There are more varieties than ever in produce markets—everything from white fleshed to deep orange. I like the deeper orange as part of a holiday meal. Since they vary so much in size, weigh the potatoes. Six to eight ounces per person is more than enough as part of a Thanksgiving spread.
Since our fall travels to Greece, we’ve been adding olive oil and Greek oregano to everything. Little wonder then that we’re roasting potatoes and cauliflower with ample amounts of both. A generous addition of oil-cured olives and briny capers keeps the roasted veggies from tasting too rich.
Both dishes can be made a day or two in advance—always a bonus for the time-stressed cook. Mashed sweet potatoes reheat beautifully either in the microwave oven or a conventional oven. If using the microwave to reheat, select a microwave-safe dish. When the potatoes are fully hot, top with the cheese, then return to the oven to soften the cheese.
The roasted vegetables also reheat well. Hold off on adding the olives and capers and let everything cool. Then, refrigerate in a covered container. Return to the sheet pan and heat in a hot oven. Add the olives and capers, then add fresh herbs at the last minute.
Mashed Roasted Sweet Potatoes With Sumac and Yogurt
Serves 8- 4 to 6 medium-large sweet potatoes, about 3 pounds total
- Avocado oil or vegetable oil for high heat cooking
- Coarse (kosher) salt
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
- 1/2 cup plain yogurt or creme fraiche
- 1/2 teaspoon each: sumac, basil
- 1/4 teaspoon each: oregano, black pepper, thyme
- 1 teaspoon fine table salt
- 1/2 to 1 cup (4 to 6 ounces) crumbled soft goat cheese or feta cheese
- 1/4 chopped fresh cilantro
When potatoes are cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh away from the skin and place in a large bowl. Mash until smooth, then mash in the butter, yogurt, sumac, basil, oregano, pepper, thyme, and fine salt. Transfer to a well-buttered baking dish. Complete Step 3 right away or let stand at room temperature up to 30 minutes or refrigerate covered up to two days.
Roasted Potatoes and Cauliflower With Olives and Rosemary
Serves 8- 4 medium-sized russet potatoes, about 2 pounds total, scrubbed clean
- 1/2 cup olive oil
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 large head cauliflower, about 2 pounds, cored, separated into florets
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried
- 1 tablespoon ground sage
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 1/2 to 1 cup halved, pitted oil-cured black olives or pitted Kalamata olives
- 1/4 cup drained capers or chopped green olives
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, chives, or cilantro or a combination
- Fresh rosemary sprigs, for garnish
Meanwhile, put cauliflower on a second rimmed sheet pan so vegetables are not too crowded. Add remaining oil; stir to coat cauliflower with the oil. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt; stir to coat. Roast, stirring twice, until cauliflower is golden and fork-tender, about 20 minutes.
Mix rosemary, sage, and pepper in a small bowl; stir in garlic. Add half of the mixture to each baking sheet. Roast about 5 minutes more. Combine potatoes and cauliflower in a large serving bowl. Stir in olives and capers. Serve sprinkled with parsley and garnish with rosemary springs.
