In this series, columnist Sibylle Eschapasse interviews some of France’s top chefs, the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France.
Name:
Olivier Desaintmartin
Hometown:
Chauny (Picardy)
Age:
55
Restaurants:
ZINC and Caribou Café, in Philadelphia
Years of Experience with French Cuisine:
39 years
Maitre Cuisinier de France since:
2009
Sibylle Eschapasse: What does it mean to you to be a Maître Cuisinier de France, a most admired title?
Olivier Desaintmartin: Being a MCF is like being a pioneer of this French heritage called the classic cuisine. The most rewarding part is to be able to share your knowledge with the next generation.
Ms. Eschapasse: Why did you choose to become a chef?
Mr. Desaintmartin: I always cooked alongside my mother. We were a hunting family and we entertained a lot, serving what we hunted. I love cooking and I love remembering flavors that came out of my mom’s kitchen.
Ms. Eschapasse: If a close friend were to describe your cooking, what would they say?
Mr. Desaintmartin: Simple, tasty, flavorful.
Ms. Eschapasse: If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
Mr. Desaintmartin: Geologist or architect.
Ms. Eschapasse: Who would you consider to be your greatest culinary influence?
Mr. Desaintmartin: Michel Guérard.
Ms. Eschapasse: How would you define French cuisine?
Mr. Desaintmartin: Fresh, tasty, balanced, flavorful, and, if it’s well done, unforgettable.
Ms. Eschapasse: Tell us about the recipe you chose.
Mr. Desaintmartin: Skatefish is a French classic. I have had skate on my menu for 25 years. I couldn’t help it.
Skatefish With Bean Ragout and Caper Sauce
