In this series, columnist Sibylle Eschapasse interviews some of France’s top chefs, the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France.
Name:
Sylvain Portay
Hometown:
Evian-les-Bains
Age:
55
Restaurant:
Currently working as a traveling chef
Years of Experience with French Cuisine:
40
Maître Cuisinier de France Since:
2015
Sibylle Eschapasse: What does it mean to you to be a Maître Cuisinier de France, a most admired title?
Sylvain Portay: The recognition of my peers and the opportunity to meet and exchange our experiences.
Ms. Eschapasse: Why did you choose to become a chef?
Mr. Portay: I used to often go to restaurants with my parents, and I always liked the atmosphere.
Ms. Eschapasse: If a close friend were to describe your cooking in three words, what would they be?
Mr. Portay: Fresh, flavorful, and simple.
Ms. Eschapasse: If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
Mr. Portay: When I was a kid, I wanted to be a croupier in a casino, a jeweler, an Egyptologist, or a winemaker. I still envy the people who do these jobs.
Ms. Eschapasse: How would you define French cuisine?
Mr. Portay: French cuisine was codified by Auguste Escoffier, and it’s always changing and adapting to different ways of life.
Ms. Eschapasse: Of France’s many regional cuisines, which do you prefer to cook?
Mr. Portay: Mediterranean cuisine because it focuses on vegetables, fish, and meat with light sauces.
Ms. Eschapasse: Tell us about the recipe you chose.
Mr. Portay: It’s flavorful, with a good balance between the fennel and the acidity of the tapenade. There are only three components, and it’s easy to make.
Sibylle Eschapasse is from Paris and lives in New York City. In addition to working at the United Nations, she contributes to various publications and was the host of “Sibylle’s Top French Chefs,” a series on PIX11’s “Celebrity Taste Makers.” She may be reached at [email protected]
Striped Sea Bass With Fennel and Tapenade
