The Secret to Perfectly Cooked Shrimp, Every Time

Cooking shrimp in the shell yields more flavor in the cooked product; peeled, deveined shrimp proves more convenient for the cook. (JeanMarie Brownson/TNS)

Shrimp cocktail just may be the ultimate New Year’s Eve party pleaser. It’s perfect as a light first course for a more formal meal, or you can set out a platter of perfectly cooked shrimp alongside a zesty homemade cocktail sauce.

Your guests will feel well treated.

When shrimp goes on sale, purchase several sizes. The larger shrimp prove perfect for eating out of hand with a dipping sauce. Smaller shrimp takes well to a saucy-style cocktail meant to be eaten with a spoon and crackers or tortilla chips.

Look for responsibly farmed shrimp sold at reputable markets. I prefer to buy frozen shrimp so I can thaw them at my convenience. Always thaw frozen shrimp slowly, set in a bowl to catch drips, in the refrigerator, overnight, or for up to two days.

Cooking shrimp in the shell yields more flavor in the cooked product. However, peeled, deveined shrimp proves more convenient for the cook. You decide.

Shrimp cooks quickly—one of its many virtues but also a trait that makes them tricky to cook; overcooked shrimp tastes bland and rubbery. A quick immersion in boiling water followed by off-the-heat steaming works every time no matter the size. Flavor the water to flavor the shrimp. I’m partial to fresh lemon juice and salt, but a seasoning such as Old Bay, crushed red pepper flakes, or curry powder works well, too.

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Creating a delicious cocktail sauce takes just a few minutes. Start with your favorite brand of ketchup and add refrigerated, grated horseradish and lemon to offset the sweetness. Add an interesting red chile twist. A Thai-style red chile paste lends intrigue and a modest amount of heat. Or, try the ever-popular chile crisp and skip the added oil in the recipe. Pureed chipotles in adobo add smoke and lots of heat; use in moderation. Korean red chile paste adds a unique sweet heat.

Pile cooked shrimp over crushed ice over a drip pan if putting them out on a buffet. Alternatively, for a first course, arrange the shrimp around the rim of a glass filled with a few spoonfuls of the cocktail sauce. The tropical shrimp cocktail can be served with chips or crackers or over a bed of Bibb lettuce.

Pair shrimp with local beers, sparkling ciders, or champagne, and toast to the New Year.

Perfectly Cooked Shrimp

Makes about 4 servings

• 1 to 1 1/4 pounds raw jumbo-size shrimp in the shell, 16 to 20 per pound
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Put 4 cups of water into a large saucepan. Add lemon juice and salt. Heat to a boil.

Add shrimp and watch carefully to return to a boil. Stir well, then immediately tip all the water out of the pan into the sink. Leave the shrimp in the pan; partly cover the pan and let sit off the heat, until shrimp is just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet to cool completely. Refrigerate up to two days.

Homemade Red Chile Cocktail Sauce

Makes about 3/4 cup

• 1/2 cup organic tomato ketchup
• 1 tablespoon refrigerated horseradish
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 to 3 teaspoons red chile paste, such as Thai-style red curry paste, Korean gochujang, or Asian chile crisp
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon rind
• Salt to taste

Stir together ketchup, horseradish, oil, and 1 teaspoon of the chile paste in a small bowl until well mixed. Taste and add more chile paste as desired. Stir in lemon juice, rind, and salt. Store covered up to several days. Serve at room temperature.

Shrimp Cocktail With Red Chile Cocktail Sauce

Makes 3 appetizer servings

• 1 pound cooked shrimp, peeled, deveined with tail left intact, chilled
• 3/4 cup homemade red chile cocktail sauce (see recipe)
• Fresh lemon wedges
• Parsley for garnish

Arrange cooked shrimp on a serving platter. Set a bowl of the cocktail sauce on the platter. Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley. Serve cold.

Tropical Shrimp Cocktail With Avocado

Note: This is a fine place to use small shrimp. Be sure to cook them with the shells on, then peel completely and devein them.

Makes 2 servings

• 1 small poblano chile pepper
• 3/4 cup homemade red chile cocktail sauce (see recipe)
• 1 tablespoon red pepper hot sauce
• About 3/4 pound cooked, peeled, and deveined shrimp (see recipe)
• 1/2 cup diced cucumber
• 1/4 cup finely diced red onion, well rinsed
• Salt to taste
• 1 small avocado, halved, pitted, diced
• 2 or 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, parsley, or chives, or a combination
• Corn tortilla chips or crackers for serving

Set poblano over a gas burner on medium. Cook, turning with tongs, until skin is charred and blistered on all sides, about 10 minutes. Let cool. (Alternatively, place pepper on a baking sheet and roast in a 400-F oven, turning often, until charred and soft, about 15 minutes.)

When the pepper is cool enough to handle, peel off the charred skin, and remove the stem and seeds. Rinse. Dice flesh finely.

Mix homemade cocktail sauce and hot sauce in a medium-sized bowl. Cut shrimp in half (or, if large, cut into bite-sized pieces). Add to bowl. Stir in poblano, cucumber, rinsed onion, and salt. (Refrigerate covered up to 1 hour if desired.)

Just before serving, stir in avocado and cilantro. Serve in small bowls accompanied by chips or crackers.

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