Secrets From the Japanese Pantry

The popular Tori Tempura chicken at Izakaya Sushi Ran is marinated in mirin and koji. Courtesy of Izakaya Sushi Ran

In this series, we ask chefs about the secret ingredients they love—and how you can use them at home.

Two Trusty Stalwarts

Seiji Wakabayashi, executive chef of Sushi Ran and Izakaya Sushi Ran in Sausalito, California, has long relied on two classic Japanese condiments.