I used to think of Athens as a big ugly city with obligatory ancient sights, fine museums, the Plaka (an extremely touristy old quarter), and not much else. “The joy of Greece is outside of Athens,” I wrote. “See Athens’ museums and scram.”
But while updating my guidebook one summer, I enjoyed the city more than ever before. I discovered a many-faceted city that’s getting its act together, despite Greece’s economic struggles. I had a great experience even though it was the worst time of year for a visit. It was sweltering—well over 100 degrees—and since it was mid-August, most Athenians were gone, finding relief on the beach. Still, there was an energy in Athens that made me want to come back and linger … in the spring or fall.
