Italy makes more wine than any other country. But for years, the prolific rustic bottlings of red and white table wine diverted attention from the country’s exceptional winemaking potential. Big, bold, ageable wines from Nebbiolo and Sangiovese grapes turned that around for reds. Italian whites have had to fight for legitimacy—especially the most exported Italian varietal, pinot grigio.
Pinot grigio came to the United States in the late ’70s, and by the mid-90s was one of the most imported varietals from Italy. The refreshing acidity served as counterpoint to the oaky, buttery Chardonnays dominating the American market—and fatiguing many palates. During the U.S. importation boom of the ’90s, Italian producers took measures to meet demands, including cultivating less favorable vines in the plains and on valley floors. Pinot grigio production was up, but quality was down, resulting in many thin, watery offerings that gave the wine a bit of a bad rap. It’s steadily been working to win back hearts and minds since.
