Let Me Tell You Why I’m in Love With Local Asparagus

Let Me Tell You Why I’m in Love With Local Asparagus
It tastes sweeter and greener, with a superior crisp snap. (JeanMarie Brownson/TNS)
6/13/2023
Updated:
6/13/2023

Fresh asparagus, purchased close to its growing area, tastes vastly different than the bunches sold most of the year at the supermarket. Local asparagus tastes sweeter, greener, and richer, even with a superior crisp snap.

For the next couple of weeks, we plan to eat our fill of the local deep green and purple varieties in everything from salads to stir-fries, soups and sides.

Recent travel in northern Spain and Madrid, with their undying adoration for white asparagus, inspire our asparagus dishes this spring. There, the thick creamy white spears are popular as a tapas treat on slices of bread and in all manner of salads. When white asparagus is available in my markets, I scoop it up.

Cooking asparagus with high heat adds a lovely browned flavor, which complements their herby flavor. While I do love the flavor of grilled asparagus, it’s troublesome to grill them—it’s too thin and falls through the grill grates; added oil causes flare-ups.

Broiling asparagus on a shallow pan solves the cooking problems beautifully. Medium-thick spears cook in less than 5 minutes and come out bright with a few golden spots, crisp-tender and moist. The trick is to stay close by while they cook to prevent overcooking the precious tips. (The same rule applies to any asparagus cooking method—be careful not to overcook!)

Broiled asparagus can be enjoyed hot or at room temperature dressed with a homemade vinaigrette. Chop it and add to pastas, scrambled eggs, even over a pizza.

Purple, white or green, asparagus pairs beautifully with salty, tangy Spanish ham (jamon) or Italian prosciutto. Pile the asparagus on toasted bread before topping with slivers of the ham and a generous sprinkling of grated cheese. You can top the toasts with a poached or fried egg for a light supper or brunch dish.

Basic Broiled Asparagus

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

  • 1 bunch, 12 to 16 ounces, medium thickness asparagus, tough ends trimmed
  • 1 tablespoon fruity olive oil
  • Coarse (kosher) salt

Directions

1. Position rack so broiler pan is 6 or 8 inches from heat source. Preheat broiler.

2. Put asparagus onto a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil and roll around to coat on all sides. Sprinkle with salt. Broil, 6 to 8 inches from heat source, turning occasionally, until the tip of a knife comes out easily, 3 to 4 minutes.

Broiled Asparagus with White Wine Vinaigrette and Egg

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

  • 1 bunch basic broiled asparagus, see recipe
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
  • 1/8 teaspoon each: salt, freshly ground black pepper, dried thyme
  • 2 hard-cooked eggs
  • Chopped fresh chives

1. Arrange broiled asparagus on a serving platter. Mix oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and thyme in a small bowl. Drizzle over asparagus. Finely chop eggs and sprinkle over asparagus. Sprinkle with chives. Serve at room temperature.

Asparagus Toast with Ham and Cheese

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

  • 4 thick slices sourdough bread or two 4-inch long pieces of baguette (halved)
  • Olive oil
  • 1 bunch, about 12 ounces thick, fresh asparagus, ends trimmed
  • Coarse (kosher) salt
  • 3 or 4 slices (about 2.5 ounces) serrano ham or prosciutto or diced pancetta
  • 3 to 4 tablespoons freshly grated Mexican cotija, asiago cheese or shredded Parmesan cheese
  • Lemon wedges
  • Chopped fresh chives

Directions

1. Position broiler so pan is 6 or 8 inches from heat source. Preheat broiler.

2. Toast bread on a baking sheet under the broiler, flipping once and watching closely to prevent burning, until golden with a bit of char on edges, 45 to 60 seconds per side. Remove from heat and brush with oil. Set aside.

3. Put asparagus on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil and roll around to coat on all sides. Sprinkle with salt. Broil, 6 to 8 inches from heat source, turning occasionally, until the tip of a knife comes out easily, 3 to 4 minutes.

4. Top bread slices with asparagus. Top with ham and sprinkle with cheese and pepper. Broil until cheese is golden and ham is crispy, about 1 minute. Remove from heat, add a spritz of lemon juice, sprinkle with chives and serve.

JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades. ©2022 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.
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