I have this food fantasy. In my decades of travel in more than 80 countries, I have had my share of amazing meals, and I don’t mean fancy Michelin-type restaurants. These food moments were made memorable either by the food alone or in part by the setting, the experience, and the people around me.
Managua, Nicaragua: Churrasco

During my time in Central America, I traveled by long-range Galgos (“Greyhound” in Spanish) bus from Guatemala City to Panama City. It was a 3 1/2-day trip at the time, and we had to stop for the evening in both Costa Rica and Nicaragua, as it wasn’t advisable to travel at night. In Managua, the bus station wasn’t close to much, and I just took a basic room next to the station. In search of street food, I went around the other side of the block, where I found a family literally opening up their home—lifting a gate and folding back the front wall of the cinderblock house—and moving tables from their living room partly onto the front patio. Intrigued, I inquired about the menu. They served only grilled beef—churrasco.
There weren’t any special seasonings beyond a bit of salt, but it was incredibly tender, smoky, and nicely charred. Did it help that I was tired and hungry? Sure. But the atmosphere, almost like dinner at a friend’s house, and the complete unlikeliness of such quality food in an unassuming residence in a bus-station neighborhood made it unforgettable.
I ate there on a couple of trips that year, and this is where I first had the thought, “If I were a rock star, I would fly in my private jet all the way to Nicaragua just to eat here for the night.”
Chiang Mai, Thailand: Khao Soi

Khai soi, originating in the north of Thailand, is a yellowish curry soup served with thin egg noodles and a chicken leg, and garnished with bits of shallots, pickled mustard leaves, crunchy fried noodle pieces, and lime juice. The sauce is basically red curry paste tempered with turmeric and curry powder, and it’s my favorite of all Thai curries—a dish from the north.
Panama City: Ceviche

Each day, fresh ceviche arrived in take-out-style plastic tubs, without any label or brand name. It’s made with a particular lime, a local pepper, some onions, and corvina. I translate “corvina” as sea bass, but in both English and Spanish the actual species of “sea bass” is elusive. Just call it a whitefish.
The cubes of raw fish are “cooked” by the acidic juice, giving them a firmer texture. You eat this (and I do mean the whole 16-ounce tub!) with a sleeve of Saltine crackers.
San Sebastián, Spain: Basque Cheesecake

La Viña, a pintxos bar (pinchos, similar to tapas), started baking cheesecake—Philly cheese and all—back in the 1980s. But they made it without a crust or toppings and baked it until it showed some caramelized char on the outside while remaining soft on the very inside—so soft that if you cut it with a knife, it leaves a smear on the blade.
Bruges, Belgium: Tripel

Seattle: Crab Legs

After a full day out on the San Juan Islands back in 1993, I got back to the city late and hungry. The first place I could find that was still open was nearly under the University Bridge. I ordered the king crab legs cooked over alderwood. I had a big bloody mary while I waited, and when the food arrived, I was loose, uninhibited, and ravenous. A short while later, the most delicious crab I’ve ever had was nothing but shells, and I had melted butter (and perhaps bits of shell) all over my face and hands. Thank heavens we had no camera phones and social media back then.
Tokyo: Stand-Up Sushi

Right across the narrow alley from the Shinjuku post office, this hole in the wall requires you to squeeze past customers if the only open spot is at the other end. Two chefs stand at the middle and assemble whatever you ask for, reaching over and setting it down on the counter before you.
This is where I first had ebi mayo (shrimp with mayonnaise). After having read an internet commenter bloviate about how Japanese food with mayo is not really Japanese, I watched as the itamae—sushi chef—laid out a piece with a shrimp and topped it with a squirt of Kewpie (the Japanese national brand of mayo, founded in 1925), and then hit it with the kitchen torch to scorch the mayo a bit and give it a touch of smoke.
Istanbul: Black Sea Pide

Chios, Greece: Beef Stew

I arrived on Chios, the alleged home of Homer (the “Odyssey” one, not the Simpson), on the short ferry ride from Cesme, Turkey. But I had arrived in the middle of the afternoon during mesimeri, the Greek version of the siesta. Not a single restaurant was open, but one place, with its chairs stacked outside along the harborside promenade, showed an open door. I poked in from the bright sun and heard the owner before I could see him as my eyes adjusted. I asked, in English, if he was open. He told me that they didn’t open for another hour, but please, take a seat.
“Want to sit outside? You see, in America, if you come one minute before they open, they tell you, ‘No, we are closed!’ But in Greece? We are relaxed! We are friendly!” He shrugged and smiled. “I have some stew that is ready. It is delicious.”
Amman, Jordan: Hummus

Almost cafeteria-like in its casual, partly open-air setting, the hummus and falafel joint bustled with locals. The hummus was perfectly smooth and rich, drizzled with quality olive oil, and served with crispy falafel (their actual specialty) and tomato with herbs and raw onions.
I’ve pored over the internet to find recipes that allegedly have cloned the hummus. While none of these matches this hummus that nearly brought me to tears, I’ve found a couple that are in the ballpark—if you count the off-ramp from the expressway outside the parking lot of a stadium as part of a ballpark. I’ll take what I can get!






