Cooked as a Cucumber?

Cooked as a Cucumber?
Cucumber in a basket. Jurga Jot/Shutterstock
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At an overpriced tapas joint, I once took a chance on charred cucumber salad. The dish sounded counterintuitive, to put it delicately, because everyone knows a cucumber should be served cool. Cooking a cucumber would be like giving Samson a haircut before the battle. A cool cucumber is a happy cucumber.

The best have tried, and failed, to find a way to cook a cucumber that people want to eat. Even James Beard, with a recipe for poached cucumbers, couldn’t pull it off. The limp slices of cuke were only rendered edible with the cream, mushrooms, and twist of black pepper he called for. I was not converted.

Ari LeVaux
Ari LeVaux
Author
Ari LeVaux writes about food in Missoula, Mont.
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