Transcendental Tofu

Golden cubes of crispy tofu soak up a deeply peppery broth, delivering comfort and depth in equal measure.

Vietnamese clay pot tofu doesn't try to make tofu taste like meat—and that's why it works. Ari LeVaux

When I first made the acquaintance of tofu, it did not go smoothly. A first grader with a soft spot for animals, I had only recently learned where meat comes from. After internalizing this barbaric truth, I announced to my parents that I had converted to vegetarianism.

A few days later my dad had an announcement of his own. He laid before me a plate of what he called “bean curd,” more widely known as tofu. The dish he served me consisted of slices of a soft white material that, upon investigation, was as bland as it was colorless.