Compose Your Salad

A nicoise salad is the sum of its components, however many variations abound.

This rendition is more California in style, inviting the bounty of the spring and summer garden to join the plate—namely, green beans, potatoes, tomatoes, and lettuce. Photo by Lynda Balslev for Tastefood

This version of the classic French nicoise salad is a vibrant entree for a Mother’s Day brunch or al fresco lunch. A nicoise salad is the sum of its components, however many variations abound. The original salad was simple, influenced by the Mediterranean climate and the abundance of tomatoes, olive oil, and anchovies in Nice. Over time, numerous additions (and opinions) begat as many iterations. This rendition is more California in style, inviting the bounty of the spring and summer garden to join the plate—namely, green beans, potatoes, tomatoes, and lettuce.

Once you’ve gathered the ingredients, the salad requires simple do-ahead prep for easy assembly before serving. The beans, potatoes, and eggs should be cooked in advance and allowed to cool. Be sure to use a high-quality oil-packed tuna; the olive oil adds welcome richness and flavor to the tuna. Then comes the fun part: assembling the salad. Sure, you could simply muddle the ingredients together on a plate, but with some thoughtful arrangement, you can create a visually appealing platter, worthy of a central place on the table.

Nicoise Salad

Active time: 30 minutes Total time: 30 minutes, plus cooling time Serves 4

Vinaigrette:

• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1 garlic clove, minced or pushed through a press
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salad:

• 8 ounces green beans or haricots verts
• 12 ounces new or small yellow potatoes
• Butter lettuce leaves
• 2 to 3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled, halved or quartered
• 1 small English cucumber, with skin, sliced on the diagonal
• 1 cup halved grape or cherry tomatoes
• 1/2 cup black olives, such as Kalamata or Nicoise
• 12 ounces tuna fillets in olive oil (half-heartedly drained)
• 1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 1 to 2 tablespoons capers, drained
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
• Finely grated lemon zest

Whisk the vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, garlic, tarragon, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Add the oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly to emulsify. Set aside until use. (Briefly whisk again before serving.)

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook until bright in color and crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove with tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer to a colander, and run under cold water to stop the cooking process.

To the same pot, add the potatoes. Bring the water back to a boil, then partially cover the pot and simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes, depending on size. Drain and cool to the touch. Halve the potatoes and place in a small bowl. Add 1 tablespoon vinaigrette and toss to coat.

Arrange the lettuce leaves on a serving platter or in a large shallow serving bowl. Mound the beans, potatoes, eggs, cucumbers, tomatoes, and olives in a clockwise fashion around the plate. Place the tuna in the center. Scatter the onions and capers over the salad.

Drizzle the dressing over the salad to your taste. Garnish with parsley and lemon zest. Serve with the remaining dressing.