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Satay of baby back ribs, Leela Punyaratabandhu's low-and-slow take on Thailand's ubiquitous pork satay: "Think of the ribs as pork meat that nature has already threaded onto skewers." Photo by David Loftus
Leela Punyaratabandhu’s memories of home are perfumed with smoke.
The award-winning cookbook author grew up in Bangkok, Thailand, where she was surrounded daily by the aromas of food cooking over a live fire—of charring meat and sizzling fat, tinged with fish sauce and lemongrass and the fragrant smoke of the smoldering coals below.