At The Modern, the Chef Is a Maestro

The Modern is another one of celebrated Danny Meyer’s additions to Manhattan’s restaurant scene.
At The Modern, the Chef Is a Maestro
CODA DI ROSPO: Monkfish and caper berries in a white wine and lemon sauce Nadia Ghattas/Epoch Times
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<a href="https://www.theepochtimes.com/assets/uploads/2015/07/Monkfish_medium.jpg"><img src="https://www.theepochtimes.com/assets/uploads/2015/07/Monkfish_medium-338x450.jpg" alt="MORELS MONKFISH: The monkfish combines all the elements of musical notes. (Ellen Silverman)" title="MORELS MONKFISH: The monkfish combines all the elements of musical notes. (Ellen Silverman)" width="320" class="size-medium wp-image-124450"/></a>
MORELS MONKFISH: The monkfish combines all the elements of musical notes. (Ellen Silverman)

To my surprise, harmony and quiet emanated instead of loud, bustling noises. As if a conductor facing his orchestra, executive chef Garbriel Kreuther prepares a signature dish, Chatham Cod Crusted With Chorizo White Coco Bean Puree and Zeres Vinegar Jus. The pan in his hand serves as a baton in the kitchen of The Modern, another one of celebrated Danny Meyer’s additions to Manhattan’s restaurant scene.

Each ingredient is thoughtfully placed like notes on music sheets, the ingredients assembled on a platter one note at a time, yielding an elegant, delicate, and flavorful meal, like the sweet sound of music heard for the first time.

The first oeuvre of my concert night at The Modern was a perfect arrangement of lettuce on thin-sliced, red-circle beet salad looked simple enough—but with its light creamy dressing, it was a culinary masterpiece.

Hesitating only briefly, my fork speared bite after savory bite—light, refreshing, and crisp with the perfect amount of dressing.