Rhodesia, named after British imperialist Cecil John Rhodes and once dubbed “The Jewel of Africa,” is no more. In its place is Zimbabwe, a land-locked country in south-central Africa bordered by South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Mozambique, and Namibia.
The Zimbabwe people—made up of two major tribes, the Shona and Ndebele—are exceedingly friendly and good-natured, and have a long history of art and music.
Wood and stone carvings by local craftsman, as well as the colourful patterns printed on fabrics that they produce, are of the highest quality. Sold along the road or at sightseeing stops, one would not be remiss in taking an empty suitcase to carry home these affordable works of art when travelling to Zim (Zimbabwe’s nickname). Bargaining is expected but the prices are so reasonable that it is more a good-natured exchange than a serious negotiation.
We got another taste of Zimbabwe’s awesome talent with a musical performance one night. I was enchanted by the high-stepping energy and breathtaking moves of the dancers to the pounding music performed by a local group called Jeys Marabini. They followed singer Gemma Griffith, a local popular recording songstress who delighted the audience with her original sound.
But it was the heart-thumping dance by the Mbende/Jerusarema that really knocked our socks off. The original dance was a fertility/courtship dance performed by men and women interacting with each other to the beat of drums and clappers. Because of the erotic nature of the dance it was banned under colonial rule, but it is an integral part of the culture and thankfully has been preserved. It is now a source of delight to all who experience it in its original form.
Zim’s Many Attractions
Proud of its many UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Zimbabwe has much to offer the traveller in both natural beauty and man-made wonders, and there are many outstanding locations to visit throughout the country.
These include the mighty Zambezi River, the fourth largest in the world; the Victoria Falls, the largest falls in the world; the largest number of surviving white and black African rhinos; and the sacred Motobo Hills UNESCO World Heritage Site with its other-worldly natural sculptures and early cave paintings by Stone Age hunter-gatherers.
Zimbabwe also boasts several ancient man-made ruins of architectural significance, such as the 11th-century medieval city of Great Zimbabwe and the Khami Ruins, proving a greater sophistication and advanced civilization than previously believed. Africa was once viewed as the “Dark Continent,” and this in part seems to relate to the erroneous belief that Africans lacked culture, but nothing could be further from the truth.
The earliest Great Zimbabwe—from which the modern country takes its name—was built around 500 C.E. when ancestors of the Shona tribes populated the area. Although time did not allow us to travel to Great Zimbabwe, we did visit the Khami Ruins. The enormous walls of the complex were built with intricate brickwork laid without mortar. The excellence of this construction is testament to the building talents of the ancestors.
Hwange National Park
Of course, it goes without saying that a game safari in Zim is a must, and Hwange National Park is the largest and most abundant source for free-roaming animals. We saw large herds of elephants, hippos, zebras, water buffalo, élan, curly-horned kudu, antelope, jackals, ostrich, baboons, and, of course, lions. We also spied a rhino and her baby (in Motobo Hills), but no leopards although there are large numbers in the park; it takes luck and patience to see them.
Accommodations range from ultra luxe—with running water and fully functioning bathrooms, comfortable king-sized beds, and handsome décor—to modest tents with no extra facilities; they are all available inside the park. Many are located by watering holes where you can watch animals come to drink from the comfort of your tent or the lobby.
There is an ongoing program in Zim to keep the watering holes full to encourage the animals not to roam out of the parks which could result in death from hunters or poachers. A notorious case in point is that of Cecil, until his death the largest living African lion. Cecil was lured out of Hwange National Park and shot by a trophy-seeking American.
At the park we “met” the new leader of Cecil’s pride, the aggressive young BuBesi, who showed his disdain for us by walking directly in front of our expedition vehicle down the road. We couldn’t pass until he tired of the game and moved to the side.
Who said animals have no sense of humour? In Zimbabwe they do.
Barbara Angelakis is a seasoned international traveller and award-winning writer based in the New York City area. To read more of her articles and adventures visit LuxuryWeb Magazine at www.luxuryweb.com
