NEW YORK—Going to Café Triskell is like going to visit a best friend. With phenomenal food and a warm, friendly atmosphere, the restaurant welcomes in a regular stream of locals who come to hang out for a while.
Chef and owner Philippe Fallait, a master of French comfort food, is always up for a good chat. He hails from Brittany, a region of France known for its cider and crepes, about which he will gladly teach you.
Fallait will also share the stories of some of his ingredients. The countryside of Brittany is known for its deep, fern-filled forests and unique stone formations still left from ages past. Back in Brittany, he would often wake up at four in the morning to go mushroom picking. “You pick the chanterelles under the pines, at an [elevated] altitude. And you find the porcini by the stream,” Fallait said.
He and his friends would bring along wine and baguettes and after eating their fill of mushrooms, they would sell the leftovers to the local restaurants.
Chef and owner Philippe Fallait, a master of French comfort food, is always up for a good chat. He hails from Brittany, a region of France known for its cider and crepes, about which he will gladly teach you.
Fallait will also share the stories of some of his ingredients. The countryside of Brittany is known for its deep, fern-filled forests and unique stone formations still left from ages past. Back in Brittany, he would often wake up at four in the morning to go mushroom picking. “You pick the chanterelles under the pines, at an [elevated] altitude. And you find the porcini by the stream,” Fallait said.
He and his friends would bring along wine and baguettes and after eating their fill of mushrooms, they would sell the leftovers to the local restaurants.
Keeping with tradition, chef Philippe uses a buckwheat batter and the same recipe that has been passed down for generations. His food has attracted the attention of locals of nearly every ethnicity, including those from his own region of Brittany.
“I keep it simple. ... If you specialize in something and its good, people will come,” he said.
“When they’re happy, that makes you feel good. That means you’re doing the right thing,” Fallait said.
The savory crepes are also a rare find that should not be missed. Chef Philippe has a talent for bringing out the essence of his main ingredients while not losing the flavor of the crepe. Both the tomato and the mushroom crepes are recommended, which come topped with garlic-herb butter that is flavorful yet not overpowering.
Although the savory crepes are wonderful, in my opinion, Fallait’s greatest talent is the art of the dessert crepe. After a main course, the pear-chocolate crepe is definitely worth a try, although his simpler crepes are the real stars of Café Triskell.
The basic lemon-sugar crepe is exquisite. Folded in a square, its corners have a delightful crunch, while the rest has a soft texture and light flavor to satisfy any sweet tooth.
Even though Café Triskell specializes in crepes, the croque monsieur is a must-try. It can be generalized as the French equivalent of an American grilled cheese sandwich with ham, yet it leaves its Yankee cousin in the dust. Made to perfection with creamy béchamel sauce, the croque monsieur is a melt-in-your-mouth winner.
Most croque monsieur served in the United States skip over the béchamel sauce, making Fallait’s serving a dream come true for any French expatriates. The classic sauce made from flour, milk, and butter is the perfect match for the ham. His sandwich is also accompanied by a light salad with vinaigrette dressing.
Chef Philippe opened Café Triskell just two years ago. He said starting the restaurant was a natural aspiration for him, as he loves the atmosphere. “It’s like home, when friends come to chat,” Fallait said.
Although some more elaborate modern dishes can be found on his menu, Fallait has made an effort to avoid the “food décor” craze and has retained the traditional recipes of Brittany, a trait, which in my view, is sadly lost in most restaurants today.
“I want to represent Brittany a bit. We are like the farmers of the sea. ... That is what it’s like in Brittany,” Fallait said.
“I keep it simple. ... If you specialize in something and its good, people will come,” he said.
“When they’re happy, that makes you feel good. That means you’re doing the right thing,” Fallait said.
The savory crepes are also a rare find that should not be missed. Chef Philippe has a talent for bringing out the essence of his main ingredients while not losing the flavor of the crepe. Both the tomato and the mushroom crepes are recommended, which come topped with garlic-herb butter that is flavorful yet not overpowering.
Although the savory crepes are wonderful, in my opinion, Fallait’s greatest talent is the art of the dessert crepe. After a main course, the pear-chocolate crepe is definitely worth a try, although his simpler crepes are the real stars of Café Triskell.
The basic lemon-sugar crepe is exquisite. Folded in a square, its corners have a delightful crunch, while the rest has a soft texture and light flavor to satisfy any sweet tooth.
Even though Café Triskell specializes in crepes, the croque monsieur is a must-try. It can be generalized as the French equivalent of an American grilled cheese sandwich with ham, yet it leaves its Yankee cousin in the dust. Made to perfection with creamy béchamel sauce, the croque monsieur is a melt-in-your-mouth winner.
Most croque monsieur served in the United States skip over the béchamel sauce, making Fallait’s serving a dream come true for any French expatriates. The classic sauce made from flour, milk, and butter is the perfect match for the ham. His sandwich is also accompanied by a light salad with vinaigrette dressing.
Chef Philippe opened Café Triskell just two years ago. He said starting the restaurant was a natural aspiration for him, as he loves the atmosphere. “It’s like home, when friends come to chat,” Fallait said.
Although some more elaborate modern dishes can be found on his menu, Fallait has made an effort to avoid the “food décor” craze and has retained the traditional recipes of Brittany, a trait, which in my view, is sadly lost in most restaurants today.
“I want to represent Brittany a bit. We are like the farmers of the sea. ... That is what it’s like in Brittany,” Fallait said.
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