Tradition and Elegance Await at Il Gattopardo

Tradition and Elegance Await at Il Gattopardo
Colorado Rack of Lamb in herb crust with potato croquette and sautéed spinach, served with fruit mustard sauce. (Courtesy of Il Gattopardo)
11/4/2013
Updated:
6/28/2015

Il Gattopardo (the Leopard in English) to most is a symbol of power and greatness. But in this case, Il Gattopardo is an Italian restaurant, themed after Visconti’s romantic film “The Leopard,” the Italian version of “Gone with the Wind.”

While the setting is modern, chic, and elegant, there is a loyalty to tradition that combines the enthusiasm and essence of Southern Italian hospitality.

Recently, Il Gattopardo relocated to a new home in the historic Rockefeller Townhouse on West 54th Street. It also acquired a new sibling in 2011, The Leopard, housed in the old Café des Artiste. It was completely gutted and redesigned into a cozy, elegant, and intimate interior. Both restaurants serve hearty and honest rustic Southern Italian with an accent on quality.

Supervising both kitchens, executive chef Vito Gnazzo has a passion for tradition. Born and raised in Italy’s Amalfi coast region, Vito Gnazzo began his culinary career at the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Antica Osteria del Ponte in Milan, and in the U.S., as head chef at the Il Rex in California and at at Sette MoMA in New York before joining the Sorrentinos, the owners of Il Gattopardo.

Gnazzo creates simple, seasonal, and elegant menus of timeless classics with a lighter interpretation that are intensely delectable, with desserts to match. Both have similar menus with slight differences, but the dishes I mention below are available at both locations.

Exploring the Menu

You may want to start with the fabulous traditional Baccalá Montecato ($18) served in small little balls with garlic croutons and zucchini scapece. This slow-cooked Portuguese salt cod is mixed with a bit of milk and anchovies and then shredded. Combined with the zucchini they explode with flavors and textures. Or try the amazingly tender Grilled Octopus and celery potato salad ($18) with a drizzle of olive oil and lemon dressing and green olives. One can both see and taste the freshness of the earth’s bounty.

There are few good choices for the artisanal pasta, which mostly is made in-house. Some are imported from Italy. The imported Busciate Trapanesi ($21) with shellfish ragout, pepperoncini, and fresh tomatoes was excellent, as well as the homemade Spaghetti with white veal ragout ($21) where you can taste the freshness of the perfectly cooked al dente pasta.
Don’t miss the trofie pasta in a Bronte pistachio and basil pesto with string beans and potatoes ($19), which I missed. I am definitely going back just for that.

The main courses section contains a superbly crafted list of dishes that are simple yet so very rich. The intensely aromatic Codfish “in casserola” ($32) with black olives, unexpected fingerling potatoes, and capers, which not only to enhance the flavor but to offset the acidity of the cherry tomatoes. It was like an avalanche of flavors gushing upon the first bite. In my mind’s eye, I saw flashes of my Italian friend’s mother cooking in the kitchen during the good old days as I savored every bit of it.

I could have gone for the lightly breaded grilled swordfish ($34) but the fruit mustard with Grilled Lamb Chops caught my attention. The sauce, a bright yellow, was a melody of figs and mustard sauce, added robust flavor to accompany the tender and juicy meat.

There was also an unusual dish, the Meatloaf Il Gattopardo ($26) on a bed of mashed potatoes and sautéed spinach, another lure that I sadly resisted because the tempting dessert menu awaited.

The meticulously conceived dessert menu offers a variety of delectable choices such as the Mascarpone Panna Cotta ($11) topped with a homemade cookie and accompanied by seasonal fruits and candied zest; the not-too-sweet Pistachio Semifreddo with Italian Amarena cherries and the unusual Citrus Cheesecake ($10) with blueberry sorbet on a layer of chocolate. A taste of these desserts felt like a melody feeding my soul.

The exciting cocktails are made using fresh juices and herbs; a list of fine wines runs from reasonable to expensive for the enthusiast.

The Leopard’s classy design and Il Gattopardo’s modern and stylish décor reflect the sophisticated and contemporary lifestyle of the customers they attract. They are places of choice for celebrities, and shakers and movers who frequently visit more than once a week. Reservations highly recommended at both places.

 

Il Gattopardo
13-15 West 54th St.
212-246-0412
www.ilgattopardonyc.com
Lunch: Monday–Friday: noon to 3 p.m.
Brunch: Saturday & Sunday: 11 a.m.–3 p.m.
Dinner: Monday–Saturday, 5 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., Sunday dinner until 10 p.m.

The Leopard at des Artiste
1 W. 67th St.
212)-787-8767
www.theleopardnyc.com
Dinner: Monday–Saturday: 5 p.m.–11:30 p.m., Sunday dinner until 10 p.m.
Brunch: Saturday & Sunday: 11:30 AM ~ 3 PM
At The Leopard des Artistes only: pre- and post-theater dinner, Monday–Friday, 5 p.m.–6 p.m. and 10 p.m.–11:30 p.m., for $35 plus tax and gratuity.

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