This must be heaven. I could not get any higher, I thought, as I gazed upon the dramatic snow-capped peaks towering over 11,000 feet against an azure blue sky. The bright red cogwheel train had inched its way past fragrant pine forests and rolling farmlands into a majestic mountain range—all too perfect to be real.
I was riding on Europe’s highest-altitude railway, the Jungfrau Rail, a technological feat built in 1912, masterminded by Swiss entrepreneur Guyer-Zeller. His dream took 16 years to become a reality after many fatalities during its construction. As Switzerland celebrates its 720th anniversary, this year, the Jungfrau railway celebrates its 100th anniversary.
Rail to the Heights
The one-and-a-half-hour, stunning train journey involved passing through a dark tunnel carved into the face of the notorious Eiger Mountain, where many a climber has tested fate but unfortunately only few have survived.
Our first stop was Eigerwand (Eiger Wall), with its panoramic views of the Eiger’s North Face, and the storybook town of Grindelwald, where just a day before I had zip-lined down its First Mountain and walked through fields of wildflowers in a mountainous wonderland. Stop two, Eismeer (Sea of Ice), took me up to a massive glacier that seemed to stretch into infinity.
Once atop the Jungfrau station, I visited the Sphinx Observation Platform to oversee an endless ice-covered universe. Pleasantly distracted by the views, I enjoyed lunch at the nearby restaurant. I then visited the must-see Ice Palace, a frozen tunnel walkway adorned with creative ice carvings, from seals to Disney characters.
Eiger Bravery
On the return trip, my travel partner and I stopped at the Eigergletscher station (7,612 feet!) for the newly opened Jungfrau Eiger Walk. The walk took us through green alpine meadows emblazoned with wildflowers and memories of the courageous mountaineers who attempted to climb the challenging Eiger North Face.
Memorabilia was displayed throughout our 55-minute trek at the historic Mittellegi Hut and farther down the trail at a structure shaped like a small church, which displayed the various climbing routes of the North Face.
Before reaching the Kleine Scheidegg Station, there was the aquamarine Fallbodensee Reservoir, where rocks were carved with names and dates of all the climbers who died during their climbs dating from the 1930s to the present. Seeing these rocks was impactful, bringing the danger and adventure of this region to a stark reality.
A Fairy Tale World
As awe-inspiring as my rail journey was, it was the two car-free towns nestled against the ridges and cliffs at the foot of the Jungfrau that punctuated this scenic splendor.
From Kleine Scheidegg, I took the train to Wengen, where the Jungfrau Marathon, the world’s most picturesque race, passes through on its way from Interlaken via Lauterbrunnen.
During my stay at the 19th century charming Hotel Regina in Wengen, I enjoyed amazing views of the Jungfrau from my window. The hotel is literally a four-minute walk to the station. It was nice to have my baggage waiting for me in my room, a service that the Swiss railway offers to passengers coming from another town.
The staff was quite hospitable. Ariane and Guido Meyer, owners since 1984, make sure there is attention to detail. The guest doesn’t have to leave for dinner with two fine restaurants in house: the reasonably priced Jack’s Brasserie and the upscale Chez Meyer’s.
My dinner at the nearby Hotel Baron featured dishes with ingredients straight from the owner’s garden. I savored a rump steak served with fresh spinach and polenta. Afterward, I walked off my dinner along a tree-lined pathway winding through the hillside that was lined with resort-style hotels, and then strolled down to the modest church below.
Here I sat on one of the outside benches, watching the lights flicker like fireflies in the distant homes set in a backdrop of chiseled snow-capped mountains.
The next morning, with Swiss Rail Pass in hand, I took the small train to the dollhouse town of Murren. I ran into a small problem with my baggage this time because it was over 55 pounds. I had to empty some books and other stuff from my bag in order to have it transported to the Hotel Alpenruh in Murren.
Reached only by cable car, Murren is what fairy tales are made of—a tiny village cushioned in the most spectacular mountain range with the deepest green valleys below. It is not unusual to spot several hang gliders floating through the cloudless sky, enjoying the magical surroundings.
However, it was the cable-ride up from Murren to the revolving Piz Gloria Restaurant of Schilthorn, site of the 007 James Bond movies of the 1960s, where I was able to view 200 peaks and all three magnificent mountain ranges simultaneously: The Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau.
I guess I was in heaven!
The Jungfrau Railways Pass is valid for six consecutive days for unlimited travel on the route network of the Jungfrau. The pass is on sale from May through Oct. 31. Cost is approximately $200.
For more information:
Jungfrau region, www.myJungfrau.ch
Beverly Mann has been a feature, arts, and travel writer in the San Francisco Bay Area for the past 28 years. She has received numerous accolades in the fields of travel writing, education, and international public relations, including a Bay Area Travel Writers Award of Excellence in Newspaper Travel Writing; www.beverlymann.com
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