Smugglers’ Notch, or “Smuggs,” as it’s affectionately referred to, is like that lifelong friend from your youth that you share fond memories with. You may seldom see them, but when you do—it’s a whopping good time!
To inspire this cult-like following, Smuggs is shrewdly focused on guest experience and value for its two customer types: families looking for a turn-key winter vacation, and mountain enthusiasts seeking the famed intermediate, advanced, and downright intimidating terrain.
On a recent weekend, I fell into both camps, skiing powder in the glades while my kids were in the care of Sam, their accomplished instructor.
Family Playground
The resort’s main base is a quaint village with a few shops, restaurants, and open-air fire pits surrounded by Adirondack chairs.Orbiting the central village are seemingly endless condos with fully equipped kitchens and outdoor hot tubs. Our unit was spacious and comfortable, with three bedrooms, two large bathrooms, and plenty of room to cozy in front of the fireplaces.
The terrain is gentle on Morse Mountain, with a roomy learning area for children and adult first-timers. They come from all over to learn from patient instructors at the renowned Snow Sport University (SSU), which boasts an adaptive program catering to those with special needs.
For children younger than three, parents can drop off at Treasures Child Care Center.
There’s plenty of off-mountain family activities as well. Most notable is the 26,000-square-foot indoor FunZone 2.0, which features a full arcade, ninja warrior courses, rock-climbing walls, bounce-houses, table games, and laser tag. When we asked our kids about their vacation highlights, they ranked defeating Mommy and Daddy in laser tag just below skiing!
Intermediate and Expert Terrain
A short drive, free resort shuttle, or chairlift away is the Upper Base. Here, approximately 70 trails and 750 additional acres of skiable glades, 2,000 feet of vertical rise, and more than 300 annual inches of snowfall are laid out between Madonna and Sterling Mountains like an all-you-can-eat Vegas buffet. To an expert skier, this is the East Coast’s Wonka Chocolate Factory.
In the center is a no-frills lodge with a small ski shop to address last-minute needs, a bar and restaurant, and a cafeteria turning out chili, burgers, fries, and hot chocolate.
The Smuggs Charm
The best way to describe Smuggs’s character is to contrast it with some of its notable northern Vermont neighbors.In the summer, Smuggs and Stowe are only 15 minutes apart, connected along Route 108 via the “Notch,” where the British evaded a U.S. embargo prior to the War of 1812, and Prohibition bootleggers imported booze from Canada, earning the name “Smugglers’ Notch.” In the winter, Route 108 is closed due to dangerous driving conditions.
While both resorts have great skiing, the experiences are quite different. Stowe’s chairlifts are modern and efficient, and they cater to their crowd with luxury amenities such as valet parking, sushi, and waiter-serviced cabanas that sit behind velvet ropes.
On the other end of the spectrum is co-op-owned Mad River Glen, which is so old-school about natural snow, they don’t allow snowboarding and intentionally limit snowmaking and grooming. Here you’ll find a locals’ scene with no on-premise lodging.
Threading the needle, Smuggs is a favorite of vacationing families and locals alike because of its value and inclusiveness. A daily lift ticket is nearly half the cost of Stowe’s. Smuggs intentionally lacks high-speed chairlifts, which add efficiency, but also inflate lift ticket prices and skier density. Snowboarding is embraced by partnering with a Vermont pioneer to establish the Burton Learn to Ride Center, and the Burton Riglet Park and Treehouse for children.
The après scene, especially during warmer spring-skiing weekends, is famed for tailgating in the renowned Parking Lot One. Here revelers enjoy cans of local brews, cheer on costumed yahoos who attempt to skim across a pond, and compete in tailgate cook-offs like a scene from a college football game or county fair.
So, if you’re looking for fashionable hotels, a variety of trendy dining and nightlife, or jet-set amenities, there are better resorts for that. By design, Smuggs is more oriented toward comfort and value.
If you want to connect with your family in the heart of New England skiing and snowboarding, you’ll make a life-long friend in Smuggs. Even if you seldom visit, you will create fond memories—a whopping good time!
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