Treviso is one of a number of picturesque medieval towns in northeast Italy. It’s barely a half-hour train ride from Venice and a must-see for anyone who loves good wine, good food, fine shopping, and a charming, laid-back ambience. It is also the ne plus ultra terroir for Prosecco, the delicious sparkling wine that is replacing champagne in the hearts of millions around the world.
On a recent fact-finding visit to Treviso’s mostly family owned world-class producers, I was captivated with the area’s cuisine. No Michelin-starred restaurants or palaces of gastronomy—only local restaurants serving the freshest available seasonal foods. I was there at the invitation of Treviso Glocal, a local consortium affiliated with the Chamber of Commerce.
Our food odyssey began at all'Antico Portico, a modest local eatery at the corner of Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the many charming squares in Treviso. Luckily, I was travelling with foodies and we quickly bonded, sharing plates with each other so as not to miss tasting any of the delectable morsels set before us.
We ordered dishes that represented the food culture of Treviso: zucchini flowers filled with mozzarella and hot cream cheese with truffles; prawns with polenta; fried ricotta with marinated radicchio; and pumpkin gnocchi topped with melted butter and poppy seeds. Next course: home-made tagliolini with shaved truffles; ravioli stuffed with basil, fresh tomatoes and cheese; and baccalà (salt cod) with polenta. We each had our favourites, but suffice it to say the quality and ingenuity of the dishes was a revelation and a forerunner of great meals to come.
After lunch we walked to Piazza Duomo and the Cathedral of St. Peter with its altar painting of the 16th century “The Annunciation” by Titian. Our exploration took us under the ancient archways that retain remnants of the colourful frescos that once graced the columns and vaulted ceilings of the public walkways, to the Piazza de Signori at the centre of Treviso.
Birthplace of Tiramisù
In nearby Piazza Ancilotto we visited a small restaurant and sweetshop called Le Beccherie that has been there since 1939. In 1970, then-owner and cook Ada Campeol developed tiramisù to give her a “pick-me-up” (the actual translation of tiramisù). The home of tiramisù has since undergone a complete revamp, and the new owners have created an updated version called “scomposto.” And although it was beautiful to behold and delicious to taste, the original still won our hearts.
