The Forgotten Beauty of Blanc-Manger

At once simple and elegant, refreshing and comforting, the delicate French pudding is due for a comeback

Fresh strawberries, perfumed with orange zest, are a sublime springtime topping for a classic almond milk blanc-manger. (Audrey Le Goff)

The blanc-manger is a somewhat forgotten medieval French dessert that surely deserves a comeback, especially during strawberry season. A cousin to Italian panna cotta, this dessert is made from milk, cream, sugar, and gelatin to reach a consistency that’s milky, smooth, and just firm enough, with just a gentle wobble. It’s quick and easy to make, a perfect no-bake dessert that’s light and refreshing for the warmer days ahead.

Transforming Through Time

The blanc-manger is an old and quite unusual dessert. It has traveled through the centuries from its medieval origins, experiencing several changes that perhaps make it more suited to today’s palates.

The first traces of this dish are found in the 14th century, with French cook Guillaume Tirel sharing his recipe for blanc-manger in the form of a jelly made from chicken broth with chunks of poultry. It’s said that this savory dish was quite popular in the 15th century at the court of Louis XII, garnished with almonds and served with extra poultry.

In the 17th century, the recipe evolved with chef Lancelot de Casteau, who shared a recipe of a rather unique sweet and savory dish of broth and chicken breasts with the addition of rice flour and milk—then flavored with rose water.

Later in the 18th century, the popular cookbook “La Suite des Dons de Comus,” by François Marin, provided the recipe for a more elaborate and savory blanc-manger, made with chicken breasts, herbs, spices, cream, bread, and egg yolks.

The recipe continued to travel through time until it eventually became the sweet and simple dessert that we know today. Because of its simplicity, this white dessert is often served with sweet syrups or fruits for added color and taste.

However, it’s somewhat forgotten in metropolitan France, giving way to more popular creams such as Bavarian cream or the famous crème brûlée. But it’s one of the most popular desserts in the French Caribbean islands, where it’s made with coconut milk, concentrated milk, lime, vanilla, and rum.

What You'll Need

As its name suggests, a blanc-manger (“white dish” in Old French) should be made with only white ingredients. Following this single rule, you can find blanc-manger made in different ways: with dairy milk, almond milk, coconut milk, with or without heavy cream, with gelatin, with arrowroot or cornstarch, and so forth.

This recipe is a classic take on the blanc-manger, and it’s one of its simplest versions, too: made with almond milk, almond extract, heavy cream, sugar, and gelatin to set.

Almond milk: Make sure to use unsweetened almond milk, or the dessert will be far too sweet.

Almond extract: A concentrated liquid made from bitter almond oil, almond extract gives this classic blanc-manger its signature flavor. Be sure to only use 1/4 teaspoon of the extract, as it packs a real punch.

Heavy cream: In France, crème fleurette is largely used for making a blanc-manger. This specific type of heavy cream is made from the cream that rises to the top of the milk. Crème fleurette is usually about 30 to 35 percent milk fat, so you can use heavy cream or whipping cream as a substitute in North America.

Gelatin: For setting the blanc-manger, you can use either powdered gelatin or sheets. Follow the classic ratio, in which one tablespoon of powdered gelatin equals four gelatin sheets. Sheets are known to result in a more transparent dessert than powder, but this dessert is meant to be all white, so this detail doesn’t apply here.

Almond Blanc-Manger With Strawberries

This recipe is one of my favorite ways to enjoy the classic blanc-manger: topped with fresh strawberries. The creaminess of the blanc-manger pairs wonderfully with the soft chunks of tangy-sweet strawberries.

This version is served in four individual cups for ease of preparation and serving. Most blanc-mangers are made in big molds but can be very tricky to flip and unmold, even for expert bakers. This dessert needs to set overnight in the fridge, so make sure to plan ahead.

Serves 4

• 1 2/3 cups unsweetened almond milk
• 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream (35 percent mf)
• 1/4 teaspoon almond extract
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 packet unflavored gelatin (1 tablespoon) or 4 gelatin sheets
• 1 pound strawberries, washed, hulled, and quartered
• Zest of 1 orange
• 2 tablespoons sugar

If using gelatin sheets, soak in a bowl of cold water for 10 minutes. Then, when soft, wring them out. (Audrey Le Goff)

In a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, whisk together the almond milk, heavy cream, almond extract, sugar, and gelatin. If using gelatin powder, add it directly into the liquid. If using gelatin sheets, allow them to soak in a bowl of cold water for 10 minutes beforehand. Then, when soft, wring them out and add them to the liquid.

Over medium heat, whisk together the almond milk, heavy cream, almond extract, sugar, and gelatin. (Audrey Le Goff)

Bring to a slow simmer and whisk for 2 minutes, until the sugar and gelatin have fully dissolved. Remove from the heat and let sit for 15 minutes.

Simmer and whisk until the sugar and gelatin fully dissolve. Remove from the heat for 15 minutes. (Audrey Le Goff)

Fill 4 individual glasses or ramekins with the blanc-manger liquid, up to 3/4 of the way full. Allow them to cool to room temperature completely before transferring them into the fridge. Chill overnight (at least 12 hours).

Fill 4 glasses with the blanc-manger liquid, 3/4 of the way full. Chill overnight. (Audrey Le Goff)

The next day, two hours before serving, prepare the strawberries. Place the strawberry quarters in a bowl, then top with orange zest and sugar. Stir and allow to sit on the counter for 2 hours, until the strawberries soften lightly and release some liquid.

Mix strawberries with orange zest and sugar, then let sit for 2 hours. Add to the glasses before serving. (Audrey Le Goff)

Take the blanc-mangers out of the fridge, and top each one with 2 to 3 spoonfuls of strawberries. Serve immediately.