If you want to temporarily step off the fast-moving escalator of city life there is a destination within easy reach. Laid back Salt Spring Island offers no four-lane expressways or fast food, but is a haven for small, local, and personal.
BC Ferries has multiple daily sailings that originate on the mainland or from Vancouver Island. You only take out your wallet once as the return travel fee is included. Perhaps, though, you may never feel the urge to leave.
The most populated of the Gulf Islands, Salt Spring’s setting is pure west coast—forested islands with lush meadows and landscapes, surrounded by sparkling ocean and breathtaking vistas.
Salt Spring has been dubbed Canada’s “hippieville” by some, while others describe it as funky or artistic. It’s true that potters, yoga studios, woodturners, painters, and weavers seem to be here in high numbers, but that’s part of the charm of it all. Put on your Birkenstocks and tour their galleries or go for one of the popular weekend art shows where many come to show their crafts. The brochure at www.saltspringstudiotour.com will guide your exploration.
A good place to re-energize with a cup of joe is Salt Spring Coffee, which has been endorsed by the David Suzuki Foundation for attempts to achieve carbon neutrality and by the Sierra Club for supporting global warming awareness initiatives. This local business has grown year after year from a single small roasting café to an internationally respected micro-roaster of certified organic, fair-trade, shade-grown beans.
Speaking of food, the news is already out on Ganges’ newest eatery: Bruce’s Kitchen. Ron Eade, food editor at the Ottawa Citizen, said he misses Chef Bruce Wood in the nation’s capital and speaks highly of Wood’s “unpretentious charm.” Why did Wood relocate to Salt Spring?
“It puts me closer to the farm community that embraces the same food philosophy,” he says.
Wood sees the direct connection of soil to supper. It is worth noting the high percentage of regional and local items on his weekly menu: organic Fulford spring greens, island chevre, hazelnuts, free-range beef and chicken, and early mushrooms.
Another new and exciting addition to the island’s delightful choice of restaurants is Del Vecchio Pasta Fresca. Owners and pasta makers Carli Goring and Max Del Vecchio moved from Italy to Salt Spring just last year.
Del Vecchio uses a unique mix of authentic Italian recipes with local vegetables and free-range eggs. Participate in a cooking class offered regularly by the owners, or take home your choice of pasta, sauce, or pesto. You'll soon be returning for more.
Bruce’s Kitchen embraces the tenets of Slow Food and makes eating a celebration. Be prepared to share a table or take your food out to a bench on the nearby green.
Jo and Dez McIntyre at Salt Spring Island Vineyards say exciting things are happening “on the wine islands” and they want to be part of it by producing wines that help sustain both the local community and the planet.
“We believe we can use island-grown grapes to produce wonderful distinctive wines. We want to maintain the established high standards of the winery and further develop the product line—like an excellent coastal sparkling wine. People have a good time here and enjoy our wines; that is very satisfying,” says Dez.
Salt Spring Island Vineyards’ groomed rows of mature vines stretch along the island slopes and, yes, do start with a glass of bubbly. Morning Star 2005, méthode champenoise, is blended from local Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and offers a delightful burst of refreshment.
B&B’s, motels, and premier accommodations are plentiful on the island, and finding a place to stay is not a challenge in the off-season. However, forward planning is required during summer when Salt Spring’s population swells considerably.
Try Hastings House for luxurious lodging and the finest cuisine, or go to www.saltspringtourism.com to find a fit for your budget and needs.
On a sunny clear day the recommendation would be the 10 km drive from Ganges to the lookout on Mt. Maxwell. Not all roads on the island are paved, and the trip Mt. Maxwell is not for RVs or for those who worry about a bit of dust on their vehicle. Because of the incline and curves it is necessary to drive with extra care.
For more of a workout head south to Burgoyne Bay Provincial Park for a walk beneath the island’s largest stand of Garry Oaks. Along the water’s edge eagles, otters, and mink are frequent visitors.
To the east, Ruckle Provincial Park has an interesting mix of landscapes and land uses.
Campsites, a historical working farm, views of the passing ferry and boat traffic, and an extensive series of trails make this an attractive stop. Not far away are roadside stands with duck eggs, vegetables, and signs for locally made cheese and wood-fired oven breads.
Harry Burton of Apple-Luscious Organic Orchards at 110 Heidi Place is passionate about tree fruit. Heritage and unique apple varieties are Burton’s specialty. The orchards feature more than 300 specimens, trials, and 150 connoisseur apple varieties including Esopus Spitzenburg and Duchess of Oldenburg. Oyster shells and seaweed provide macro and micro nutrients, and a knowledgeable guiding hand results in apples that customers line up for at Victoria’s Moss Street Market.
Having had a taste of Salt Spring’s relaxed pace, don’t be sad upon leaving. It’ll always be there, relatively unchanged, when you’re ready for another handy escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.
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