Medieval Moments in the Perfect Tuscan Town

Medieval Moments in the Perfect Tuscan Town
A common destination for daytrippers, Siena becomes a great place to explore once they leave. RossHelen/Shutterstock
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Twice a year, the Piazza del Campo thunders. Normally a picturesque place and rather serene, the square is lined with tables where al fresco dinners end and diners tarry with their last drops of espresso, or limoncello. The irregular, shell-shaped, sloping oval of the square spreads out under medieval buttresses and Torre del Mangia, a clock tower that, when completed in 1348, was one of the tallest non-church towers in Italy. Stepping out from the labyrinth of lanes leading up to it—11 separate, shaded streets feed into the square—feels like taking a trip back to the Middle Ages.

Italian jockey Stefano Piras (2nd L), who races for the "Bruco" district, falls during a false start of his horse, Uragano Rosso, during the historic Italian horse race Palio di Siena on July 2, 2022, in Siena, Tuscany. (ALBERTO PIZZOLI/AFP via Getty Images)
Italian jockey Stefano Piras (2nd L), who races for the "Bruco" district, falls during a false start of his horse, Uragano Rosso, during the historic Italian horse race Palio di Siena on July 2, 2022, in Siena, Tuscany. ALBERTO PIZZOLI/AFP via Getty Images

But during the Palio di Siena, which takes place twice every year in July and August, everything gets loud. Ten bareback riders, each one decked out in the colors of their “contrade,” or city district, hoof it hard on the best horses in the region, racing toward victory on soil laid around the perimeter for the occasion. It’s a wild spectacle, perhaps most memorably depicted in the James Bond film, “Quantum of Solace.”

Supporters of the "Istrice" (Crested Porcupine) contrada, or city ward, cheer as they gather at Piazza del Campo for a rehearsal on the eve of the Palio di Siena horse race on July 1, 2022, in Siena, Tuscany. (ALBERTO PIZZOLI/AFP via Getty Images)
Supporters of the "Istrice" (Crested Porcupine) contrada, or city ward, cheer as they gather at Piazza del Campo for a rehearsal on the eve of the Palio di Siena horse race on July 1, 2022, in Siena, Tuscany. ALBERTO PIZZOLI/AFP via Getty Images

The opening scenes of the movie cut between the torrid action of the equine race and a breathless chase as Mr. Bond does everything he can to get away from the bad guys. After streaming a few minutes of the film while standing on the square—a slightly surreal moment—I sat down for dinner nearby. Chatting with the owner of the restaurant, I believed for a moment that I’d stumbled across one of the brave riders. He spoke first-hand about the race. It turned out that this wasn’t the case; something I’d see, unmistakably, in the photos he showed me after I’d polished off my pasta.

A traditional banquet takes place at Piazza del Campo on the eve of the famous horse race, on July 1, 2022, in Siena, Tuscany. (ALBERTO PIZZOLI/AFP via Getty Images)
A traditional banquet takes place at Piazza del Campo on the eve of the famous horse race, on July 1, 2022, in Siena, Tuscany. ALBERTO PIZZOLI/AFP via Getty Images

In many ways, Siena is the perfect Tuscan town. Not overrun with tourists like Florence, it’s a popular destination for day trippers from larger cities nearby. But once the tour buses leave, you have the whole place to yourself—and the 55,000 locals living in this small city, of course.

The Piazza del Campo is one of Europe’s most perfectly-preserved medieval squares. Fan-shaped, it was paved in red brick in 1349. Eight lines of travertine divide it into sections; a total of nine wedges represent the Noveschi (also called the Nine, or the IX), who governed Siena during its peak in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Republic of Siena flourished under the Noveschi, who brought political and economic stability and completed major public works, including much of the city walls and the grand cathedral. They ruled until the Black Death reached Siena and contributed to a popular uprising and change in government in 1355. Two hundred years later, in 1555, the Republic of Siena officially ceased to exist when its forces lost to Florence, its rival, and was replaced with Florentine rule.

Italian jockey Giovanni Atzeni (C) riding Zio Frac for the Drago district, celebrates after winning the Palio di Siena on July 2, 2022, in Siena, Tuscany. (ALBERTO PIZZOLI/AFP via Getty Images)
Italian jockey Giovanni Atzeni (C) riding Zio Frac for the Drago district, celebrates after winning the Palio di Siena on July 2, 2022, in Siena, Tuscany. ALBERTO PIZZOLI/AFP via Getty Images

But the Nine left behind a strong legacy that’s still apparent even on a casual stroll. Traveling with family, we stayed at a former monastery just inside the city walls. Hanging out in the courtyard, we grazed on Italian meats and cheeses—mortadella and pecorino and buffalo mozzarella, plus olives and crusty fresh bread, all from the counter at a little grocery store next door.

We spent our days just roaming, passing through Piazza del Campo several times, popping into little shops along the way. The smiling owner of a small delicatessen schooled us on the distinctions between Italian sausages. At another store, workers happily offered samples of olive oil, truffle spreads, sweet candies, and meloncello, a bright, fruity drink.

Begun in the Romanesque style, the Siena Cathedral became a prime example of Italian Gothic. (fokke baarssen/Shutterstock)
Begun in the Romanesque style, the Siena Cathedral became a prime example of Italian Gothic. fokke baarssen/Shutterstock

My niece and nephew marveled at strange Italian trinkets in a bargain store where everything sold for one euro. We browsed books—all Italian, as it turned out—at a big libreria with an open-balcony second floor. We lingered over drinks, then dinner, at a patio restaurant overlooking the rolling hills, covered in vineyards.

We spent a solid half day touring the Duomo di Siena. Consecrated in 1215 and completed in 1348, this grand cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is distinctively zebra-striped; the black and white pattern is the traditional symbol of the city, appearing also on its coat of arms. Inside, striped columns lead to a gilded dome meant to signify the sun, with a checkerboard floor beneath. Statues and busts of saints, prophets and emperors peer out from above. The finest craftsmen of the age worked on the place, including Bernini and Donatello.

The Siena Cathedral (Duomo di Siena) was completed in1263. (Sabino Parente/Shutterstock)
The Siena Cathedral (Duomo di Siena) was completed in1263. Sabino Parente/Shutterstock

And we learned more about the Palio di Siena. First run in 1633, centuries of tradition surround this event. There’s a great deal of time and energy spent on the lead-up: lottery drawings to pick the horses (which are blessed in official religious ceremonies), a pageant held just beforehand, processions, open-air dinners—not to mention the endless speculation on winners and losers by the locals. But the race itself takes only between a minute and 90 seconds to complete, with chaotic sounds, relentless fury, and riders often thrown to the ground. Sometimes, spectators even jump into the fray. That’s what Marcello, the restaurant owner, did.

Siena's landmarks include its cathedral, Duomo di Siena, the Mangia Tower, and the Basilica of San Domenico. (Rasto SK/Shutterstock)
Siena's landmarks include its cathedral, Duomo di Siena, the Mangia Tower, and the Basilica of San Domenico. Rasto SK/Shutterstock
After we finished our meal at a sidewalk table, he led us inside the restaurant and pointed out a couple of different photos on the wall. In both, he was in the foreground. Arms outstretched, perhaps flailing (it was hard to tell in a still photograph), he was clearly running like a madman. The horses, just a pace or two behind him, looking like they may, in a moment, step on his heels (or worse). Pure ecstasy—or, maybe, total fear—on his face. Not something I would recommend, but certainly a good story to tell. Distinctively Siena. We headed back to the Piazza del Campo for one last look at the Torre del Mangia, all lit up, with just a few diners left at the outdoor tables around the square, finishing up their limoncello.

If You Go

Fly: The closest international airport is in Florence (FLR), where national carriers fly in from many European capitals such as Madrid, Lisbon, and London. If you’re looking to fly direct from North America, Rome (FCO) is the best choice—from there, trains and buses run to Siena.
Getting Around: Siena has a very serviceable bus network, which will take you from the train station to any point in the city. (Warning: finding the right place to embark on the correct bus can be a challenge.) However, if you’re staying inside the old walls, your feet are the best mode of transportation, using the big, wide pedestrian streets climbing across the gently rolling hills.
Stay: Situated on a quiet side street within the old city, the Chiostro del Carmine has charm to spare. While rooms can be a bit small and stuffy, some look out on the surrounding hillsides. The courtyard is lovely. And there’s a certain pleasure inherent in sleeping in a medieval convent.
Take Note: Book well ahead of time if you’re visiting during the Palio di Siena, which takes place every year on the same dates: July 2 and Aug. 16. For more details, check VisitTuscany.com.
Tim Johnson
Tim Johnson
Author
Toronto-based writer Tim Johnson is always traveling in search of the next great story. Having visited 140 countries across all seven continents, he’s tracked lions on foot in Botswana, dug for dinosaur bones in Mongolia, and walked among a half-million penguins on South Georgia Island. He contributes to some of North America’s largest publications, including CNN Travel, Bloomberg, and The Globe and Mail.
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