Home fries used to be a standard item in diners in the Northeast, but they were often disappointing, greasy, not sufficiently browned. Then diner cooks started deep-frying their home fries, solving the problem of greasiness and insufficient browning. But those cubes of potatoes are French fries in disguise, not home fries. Animal fats allow for superior browning, superior flavor, and no greasiness—just lovely potatoes browned with onions and the perfect accompaniment to your eggs.
- 2 pounds thin-skinned or new potatoes, cut into bite-size cubes (peeling is optional)
- Fine sea salt
- 5 tablespoons (2.3 ounces) any animal fat
- 1 onion, halved vertically and sliced into thin slivers
- Freshly ground black pepper
Put the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and salt generously. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil until the potatoes are just tender, but not mushy, about 7 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander but do not wash the saucepan.
Return the saucepan to the stove, add 2 tablespoons of the fat, and melt over medium heat. Add the potatoes to the saucepan and toss to coat in the fat.
Melt another 2 tablespoons of the fat in a large skillet over medium-high heat and heat the fat until shimmering. Add the potatoes, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until crisp and golden brown on all sides, about 10 minutes, turning occasionally with a spatula. Do not turn the potatoes until they are ready to release from the pan. Return the potatoes to the saucepan.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon fat to the skillet and heat until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, turning occasionally, until tender and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Return the potatoes to the skillet with the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until heated through and browned some more, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately.
Excerpted from “The Fat Kitchen” © by Andrea Chesman, photography © by Keller + Keller Photography, used with permission from Storey Publishing.