spaghetti squash

Spaghetti from a squash is the star for this recipe.

“Fall is a very tricky season, very tricky season,” Jon Feshan muses, as we walk through the Union Square Greenmarket. At first, I’m not sure what to make of it. What hazards is he talking about? Jet-lag-inducing daylight saving time? Elections? Finicky weather? For a minute I forget he’s the executive chef at County, whose American menu is focused on the seasonal, the ephemeral—the now.