Exploring Historic Prague and Environs

Exploring Historic Prague and Environs
Chateau Jemniste is one of the most authentically preserved Baroque chateaus and gardens. Barbara Angelakis
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Prague is a feast for the eyes! At least it was for me as I gawked, surrounded by locals and tourists alike, at the abundance of architectural riches this city offers.

Located on the banks of the Vltava River at the centre of Europe, one would imagine Prague would have a dreary countenance after eons of bloody struggle for control. Au contraire! Explore the Old Town (Staré Mĕsto), or the New Old Town (Novĕ Mĕsto), or Lesser Town (Malā Strana), or Jewish Town (Josefov) and you'll know what I mean. And be sure to keep your camera at the ready.

Outstanding examples abound, from the 9th-Century St. George’s Romanesque Basilica in Prague Castle to the Powder Tower in all its Gothic splendour; from 17th-century Baroque buildings and monuments designed by the master architect Jan Blazej Santini-Aichel, to the 21st-century avant-garde Dancing House designed by renowned Canadian/American architect Frank Gehry.

And Prague is just the tip of the iceberg of an ongoing restoration project that is returning historical buildings to their original majesty all across the Czech Republic.

Chateau Jemniste

For sites outside of Prague, head for the town of Jemniste and take a tour of Chateau Jemniste, one of the most authentically preserved Baroque chateaus and gardens, owned since 1868 by the aristocratic Stenberg family. The family’s coat of arms is a golden star on a blue field (“Sten” means star and “berg” means hill in German), and this image is reprised throughout the chateau in furniture and decorative items.

The family lost control of the chateau in 1943 due to their objections to the German occupation and did not regain the estate until 1995. By that time the building and grounds were in disrepair, and the family has spent years restoring them. St. Joseph’s Chapel in the chateau makes for a great wedding venue, apartments are for rent off the main building with their own private entrances, and there’s a restaurant on the premises.

A Gothic masterpiece

Move on to the historic town of Kutna Hora for a visit to the Church of the Assumption of Our Lady and Saint John the Baptist, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

This Gothic masterpiece, originally built in the early 1300s with funds derived from the town’s lucrative silver mining industry, was destroyed in the 15th century by invading Hussites. It was rebuilt in the 18th century under the direction of master architect Jan Blažej Santini in the baroque Gothic style he is renowned for. I was captivated by the internal circular staircase, a masterwork of engineering reminiscent of an inverted snail shell.  

The ossuary crypt at the Cemetery Church of all Saints. (Barbara Angelakis)
The ossuary crypt at the Cemetery Church of all Saints. Barbara Angelakis
Barbara Angelakis
Barbara Angelakis
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