When pondering the Holy Land, images of the ancient walls of Jerusalem, catching rays on a Tel Aviv beach, the Sea of Galilee where Jesus walked, and floating in the briny Dead Sea readily come to mind. But culinary delights? Well, not so much.
But once you’ve wandered the shouks, or street markets, of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, and encountered pyramids of golden apricots and dates, bourekas and kanafeh piping hot from the oven, brilliant mounds of turmeric, paprika and sumac, and stacks of braided hallah, you'll be hard-pressed to forget them.
Tel Aviv’s Levinsky Market
Spanning a half-dozen congested blocks of Levinsky Street in Florentin, Tel Aviv, the mom and pop shops that comprise Levinsky Market established by immigrants from Greece, Romania, and Turkey are a far cry from sterile grocery stores. Part and parcel of shopping here is the smell, touch, and taste; why would you buy something without tasting it first?
This is not the place to be meek and shy—it is loud and bustling, and the locals haggle, jostle, and elbow. The conundrum of what exactly is Israeli food is answered here on this hectic street. It’s a hodgepodge of disparate influences from around the world, just like Israelis themselves.
Penso Bakery sells only two items: drinks and bourekas, a flaky filo dough filled with cheese, spinach, and spiced potatoes best enjoyed within minutes from the oven. Bourekas are the specialty of the Penso family, which has been serving their age-old Turkish treat here for 80 years. The drinks are also a specialty: ayran, a Turkish milky yogurt drink (like a rose lassi); tosseta, made from almond milk; and tamahindi, an Arabic version of lemonade. Arrive at Penso at the right time and you might be sitting elbow to elbow with Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, who frequents the place.
The dusty window of Konditoria Albert with its meagre display looks like it hasn’t been updated in decades, but don’t let that deter you. Aficionados of marzipan know that Konditoria Albert is the singular place to buy the treat in Israel. The fresh fluffiness simply melts in your mouth.
